Anyone running a hydraulic clutch with their 833?

rapom65 said
I have a Lakewood bell housing, TTI headers, the stock Z bar set up and an iron case OD 883. Just too many issues getting it all working together. I've researched the crap out of this for the last six months and come to the conclusion that a pull type slave cylinder is the best and most durable option. I've got a ton of pictures and info on the different systems guys have devised but have never posted any pictures or links before. Give me some time to figure it out and I'll post it all for you. Any help here would speed this up tremendously!

Ok, think I have pics figured out. There may be more but I've identified 3 ways to accomplish a hyd clutch conversion. Starting with the set up I'm going to go with, the pull slave cylinder, then there is a push slave cylinder and several variations of a hyd throwout bearing.
GENERAL INFO: All get rid of the stock linkage and Z bar. All require locating and drilling holes in the firewall to mount a master cylinder next to your brake master and attaching it to the clutch pedal. You have to rig an offset mounting system to attach the clutch pedal to the master cylinder as it is not inline with the pedal like a brake master is. From my research the proper mounting point is 2" below the pivot point of the clutch pedal. Most people remove the over-centering spring for a diaphragm type clutch but leave it on for a three finger type. Most of the aftermarket master cylinder kits come with remote and master mounted reservoirs which gives options for servicing. The master cylinder should be matched to the needs of the slave cylinder, ie, bore size and volume needed to actuate the slave through its range of motion. Also insure the slave has enough movement to fully actuate the clutch fork. A hyd line connects the master to the slave cylinder/throwout bearing. These can be hard line, braided line or high pressure rubber (some have used brake lines). On a pull type slave one end is attached to the clutch fork backwards from normal using the stock hardware (beveled bushing and nut) and the other end to a hiem bearing, bolt and piece of U channel bolted to the front of the trans cross member using two of the cross member bolts. It pulls the clutch fork rearward when actuated. A push type slave it is mounted on the side of the bell housing and pushes the clutch fork back like a stock Z bar setup. This requires a really compact slave cylinder and as far as I'm concerned has too many issues. I'll do a pros/cons comparison latter. A hyd throwout bearing just replaces the stock throwout bearing and gets rid of the clutch fork.
Pics of a pull slave setup: