Anyone running a hydraulic clutch with their 833?

THANK YOU pauly v.100 you just saved me tons of work. I was trying to link both of those threads and now I don't have to!

To continue: The master cylinder will need a reinforcement plate on the interior side of the firewall or you will work the thin sheet metal back and forth with the clutch pedal until it cracks. One last thing you will have to do is rig a stop on the clutch pedal so you don't force the slave past what is needed to disengage the clutch.

Pros and Cons:
There are several throwout bearing kits out but they are in the $650 range. This is a clean and simple solution. The issue I have with this option is if the throwout bearing or it's connection to the pressure line starts to leak, guess what your going to spend a weekend doing? Pulling the trans and possibly a bell housing to get to it. I helped a friend with his Kiesler 5 speed install and the first time he pushed the clutch in fluid started pouring out of the bell housing. Got the wrong throwout bearing in the kit and blew the seals. Out came the motor and trans, again. NO THANKS....

The push slave has possibilities. If you look through the threads pauly posted above plus the one on bigblockdart.com they give you several different setups and parts lists to try. My issues with these are: 1) requires a lot of diddling fabricating a mounting bracket. 2) interference issues with a stock starter eliminates getting a straight throw on the clutch fork. A mini starter may solve this issue but my mock up experiments didn't prove successful. (Lakewood housing) 3) proximity to headers. Overtime the heat is really going to cook the slave cylinder. An effective heat shield would be an interesting feat in the limited space. 4) may have to shorten the clutch fork to get enough throw due to the small slave needed due to space available. 5) needs a return spring jammed in there some where too!

The pull slave would also be close to the header but not nearly as much as a push slave. I believe there will be better air flow around it and there is room for a heat shield if desired. Fabbing a mounting bracket is easy, the install simple and access for adjustment more open. I found a master with the return spring built in and a push slave cylinder at Speedway.com for less than $80 total.

Hope this helps.