Ignition problems I think

Take the dist. cap off and look. If it has breaker points--it's not electronic. If it has a module in there, it may be aftermarket electronic, like Pertronics, if it has a star wheel, might be the Mopar electronic.

Now pull the no1 plug, figure a way to get something down there so you can detect compression. bump the engine, until you start to get compression, then look for the timing marks to "come up." Bump the engine until the marks are somewhere between 10BTC (before) or near TDC. Look where the rotor is pointing, check to see which tower it's pointing to on the cap, and verify that is where no1 wire is.

Do you have the wires going around the cap in the right direction?

If doubt about the quality of spark, temporarily check spark by using a grounded test lead and crank the engine, with your test lead held right at the top of the coil tower. Sometimes resistor wires can make a spark appear weak.

Also, if you are making this test with the key in "run" and cranking the engine by shorting the solenoid or relay, you will not be getting the hottest spark, because the coil resistor bypass will not be engaged--Chryslers do this in the ign. switch.

How many terminals on the coil resistor? Two only may be the old points system