At the track today

DART340 said
I run a full 35 degrees not timing backed out, I have to leave at idle and slowly roll into it. I tried hitting it hard yesterday but it just spins, so its more like a controlled acceleration. One thing some of the racers said yesterday was that my converter never seemed like it was locking up. Its my old 10 turbo action converter, which they said might be getting too loose. I have never checked the stall but if you are rolling along at idle and hit it sorta hard, my tach goes to about 3800 before the car starts to accelerate. I really dont know that much about that stuff.

DART340 Oh and initial is set at 18 degrees, I turn it to 6000.

So did you tune it yourself? I say fix your converter if that is an issue and take it to a Chassis Dyno to get it correctly dialed in. I believe there is alot more on the table with your set up.

I have been learning on the boost game is you should pull out timing as the boost increases.

Example: This car here has Twin Turbo's on it. I have been talking back and forth with the owner. He runs 20lbs of boost with the initial timing locked out at 38* NO VACUUM ADVANCE. He Progressively pulls out 15* of timing as the Boost increases. He has Dual Water/Air intercoolers and Meth Injection Running on PUMP FUEL. He has done a best of 8.8 in the 1/4 at over 158 MPH. He leaves the line at about 2500 RPM.
His car weighs 3850lbs, HEAVY...

I will be using this............ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-6530/
with this......... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-23131/
to control my timing.

On the Dyno...........

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6VdAHJFh3Y"]YouTube - Mike's 1967 Ebay Twin Turbo Powered BBC[/ame]

At the track...........

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npwI7gJRTNw&feature=player_embedded"]YouTube - 47 Street car Shoot-Out Edm[/ame]