Why is the oil pan so hard?

It looks like cavemanmoran pulled his engine with the hood on. I always thought the hood had to come off, which is a hassle since it never seems to go back right and I never have a helper. I learned to first drill two 1/16"D locating holes in each arm to re-align w/ nails, hang the hood from the rafters to take the weight, and stack newspapers under the corners so they can't scratch the paint. I will try leaving it on next time. I have a fold-up lift and engine stand off Craigslist (no more renting for almost same price).

Still, any time you can keep the engine in the car is simpler, especially if AC and pwr steering. I did a re-ring and re-bearing on my Newport 383 and Voyager 2.4L w/ engines in-car. Maybe 30% more work if doing a head job anyway. Must crawl underneath about 20 times, but not too messy if you plan. I first scrub the engine w/ gasoline or kerosine to remove most gunk, then wipe everything w/ soaked rags. I have heard of steam cleaning, but not sure where one does that (car wash?). I put down cardboard for comfort and cover w/ newspapers. Also wear scrap clothes since you end up rolling in grit no matter how often you refresh the newspaper. I never found a rolling "crawler" useful. If you jack up the front, an easy butt-plant & roll manuever to get underneath. I stack 2'L 4x4's in a cubic pattern under each front frame to support the car, in addition to the metal stands. Good use for old fence posts and adds to the comfort level of crawling below.

I have seen photos of modified trans supports as pishta mentions. I just hate cutting original parts. I don't mind bolting on new stuff, as long as I can go back to original. How many people wish somebody hadn't "improved" their car in the '70's.

I noticed a similar hole at the rear of the block, also left side. I wonder what they were for. Support block during factory engine build?