1973 360 Rebuild

My builds detailed a little more than Dave's above...
- clean inspect, check block, heads, crank, rods for cracks or damage.
- Block: fit studs or new bolts, align hone mains, bore, plate hone, square deck to provided spec for finish and deck height. (optional: clearance for stroker crank, deburr, drill oil passages, tube right/left lifter galleries, install lifter bore bushings, final wash block, install and clearance cam bearings, freeze plugs, oil system pipe plugs, assemble short/long block or complete engine including figure compression ratio, degree cam, verify lifter rotation, provide spec sheets )
- Crank*: check for straightness, index/correct stroke, grind journals, polish/chamfer journals
- Rods*: Match length, install ARP bolts, resize big end, pin hone small end
- * internally balance assembly
- Heads: replace seats/guides as needed, cut guides for positive seals and retainer clearance, cut spring seats as needed(double springs), 5 angle performance Serdi valve job, set spring installed heights, assemble heads

A few notes, the blueprinting steps always cost more. The internal balancing on most Mopars is the same cost as external...except cast crank engines the need Mallory metal. A good valve seat machine will need new guides in 95% of the jobs. So figure on guides at minimum, 8 unleaded seats in most cases too. Align boring IMO is a necessary step. Some blocks are ok with factory tolerances, but if your shop uses a BHJ fixture or has a Rottler type plate/table, the main bore align honing will guarantee the bores and deck surfaces are the best they can be because the machines index off the crank centerline. Anything is better in most cases than factory machining in terms of quality. Any shop that doesnt give you a multi page spec sheet for your engine should tell you why they dont want to. It's easier for them to skip a few steps and not have to document the work. But that guide can be very helpful for you later.