Point Ignition Coil Check OHMS?
This bickering has a purpose. Someone above posted an example of a coil that "tests good" using a multimeter and won't even start a car. We are trying to save those who would "do" such a test and then believe what they concluded means the coil is good.
You could spend a lot of money "around" the problem. Some of us have been there.
I'm gonna post my $.02
With Coil's, In my experience, the fastest way to troubleshoot is just to swap in a test coil in your shop that you know is good. I know I have 3 or 4 laying around, that I have swapped in before to identify a bad coil. (Last one went bad in 2002 while on the highway). I've pulled one out of a working car to do ignition testing on another car before also.
The basic analysis with the two-wire meter is just a step in the troubleshooting process to see if you have a broken circuit within the coil. It isn't a step to say 'Yes' it is good, but to say 'No' it hasnt been proven bad yet.
I've had coils that are fine until they get up to operating temperature, then they quit working. As you know, neither a 2 or 4-wire meter will not find this when the engine is cold. AND The 2-wire meter WILL find it once the coil is heated up and the contacts separate. I've NEVER used a 4-wire meter for anything on a old car.
With what I see posted, I have to agree with PowerWagon Paul. Test it with the two wire. If it's still suspect, swap in a coil you know is good and go from there.
If you're concerned about the cost of having a test coil around your garage, next time you are at the salvage yard, pick up 2 or 3 for a buck each, Swap them into/out of your car to make sure good, and put on the shelf or in the drawer until you need one.
