Water in #6 cylinder?
that sucks man. Im sorry to hear. It will be even better now with a fresh 340. :)
Other then the cracked cylinder it was sounding pretty good.
I agree with all who said the head surface needs to be cleaned up. I agree with Redfish that there seems to be a problem with the #6 chamber. There's a crack that seems to appear in each of your pictures that does not appear to be a camera flash shadow. It may be worth your while to get that area checked with magnaflux. Your machine shop ought to be able to do it.
Thanks 2 Darts, the heads were not the problem, the block is cracked.
pressure test the head for shts n gigls.
so I'm gonna assume the machinist could not sleeve it?
I am going to check when I take the other block in. Worse case is I end up with two blocks if it can be sleeved.
If you did the same kind of job on both heads then both need to come off and be cleaned. Other wise a month down the road you will be doing it all over again.
Thanks for the help. On page 2 I have discovered the block is cracked.
Can that block be saved by sleeving the bad cylinder???
Going to check on that tomorrow. If not I will make a coffee table out of it. :-D
After my first post I pulled both heads and swapped out another set I had and yes I cleaned them alot better. Same problem. But car still ran strong believe it or not. After the head change it seemed fine idling for @20 min in the driveway and even on my short drive to check my kickdown. It was after I shut her down and it sat for 20 min that the cylinder filled back up.
That is when I started searching for an alternative and decided to score the extra block while I had the shot. I then pulled the engine and tore it down and noticed the crack coming up from the bottom of the cylinder. At least i've stopped chasing the problem, which is a relief to me for now. I'm sure something else will challenge me before its done.
Isn't this fun. I will prevail in the end, it just might cost more.:-D
Thanks for the help. I will try to keep updated.
