Looking for a good combo for our 360!!!
On a build like this, 400 HP and equal torque should not be a problem. Of course quality work and assembly is first and formost the main attetion with 1st class parts. Add on's and tricks in areas help, but your going to have to figure out if anything more than basic parts is what you'll do.
Things like zero gap piston rings are an excellent item for zero leak down. This helps make it effiecnt.
Polishing the chamber with or without coatings on the chamber and piston tops is another trick.
It's coating vs. power return item. Not needed work, but a bennifit at a cost.
Timing chain tentioner. (sp again,) Low cost item to keep the chain tight. Stops the cam from from fowarding and retarding on taking off and stopping.
Keep the overbore limited. Stronger straighter cylinder walls seal better for more power.
I have ordered from Jegs and Mancini racing without ever a problem.
Jegs ships free and quick.
Mancini has been in biz for decades (sp) and have many many MoPar parts on hand.
What ever one doesn't have, the other will.
Huges is another place. Very good rep. I have not ordered from them. Though here is a cam from them very similar to the Comp Cam. I'd also use this. The specs are very close.
Camshaft Technical Details
Intake Valve Lift 1.5
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5 .555°
.569°
Intake Valve Lift 1.6
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6 .592°
.606°
Intake Duration at .050"
Exhaust Duration at .050" 242°
246°
Lobe Separation Angle 108
Intake Opening at .050"
Exhaust Opening at .050" 16° BTC
54° BBC
Intake Closing at .050"
Exhaust Closing at .050" 46° ABC
12° ATC
Min. Suggested Cylinder PSI 175
Sweet Spot RPM 2500 - 6000
(According to Hughes, you'll shift a few hundred RPM's above the sweet spot. This puts it on par with the Comp Cam in terms of rpm range. With more lift.)
Links to the spots;
http://www.manciniracing.com/
http://www.hughesengines.com/
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/TopCategoriesDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002
You definatly sound like you have what it takes to get it done right.
Thanks for the high praise. It's ethier the use of good skills to do it or cubic dollors to get it done right. LOL, I go the dollor route and keep the eyes and ears open in and around the tracks, mags and shops as to what worked and what didn't with hopefully why. 20+ years into MoPars, you learn a few things. I'm still learning and I think I allways will. But the old tricks of learning still work. Just ask'em. Mechaincs, racers and freinds.
This internet has helped when the dollors run out.
I'm not a machinest. I'm a heavy industrail mechanic that moved on to inspector. I'd love to learn how to machine my own one day instead of just watching from a stool and bench talk about tools.