Tubular UCAs

You can stay with the stockers if you go to the "offset" bushing kit. Moog offers it, I don't know what the part number is. It also depends on how much you're lowering the car, and what you're looking for as far as an alignment. The stock alignment specs are horrible, you're better off running a little negative camber (stock spec is +) and more caster. For a street driven car on modern tires, 0 to -.5 degrees camber is good, with up to +4 degrees caster if you can get it.

RMS makes good UCA's, so does Magnumforce. Not sure about the new RMS arms, the old ones are "U" shaped, vs "V" shaped, so if you have a lot of backspace on your rims you may want to ask as it does make a difference in your clearance vs stock. Magnumforce offers a set of bushed tubular's that help correct for lowering and a more modern alignment, which is nice since you don't have to deal with rod ends. They also offer a "double adjustable" UCA (with rod ends) that you can adjust without taking off the car, like you have to with most of the other rod end style designs, but those are pretty spendy and probably not necessary unless you're in the habit of changing your alignment specs a lot (ie, racing). I'd stay away from CAP UCA's, they're the ones sold by Mancini. I have a set on my Challenger, and while my UCA's have been fine the company has had a couple of failures, and haven't been the best on customer service.


I worked with Bill on designing the newer style "V" shaped tubular upper control arms. These new style "V" shaped ones are now the only ones available because the older ones were designed to be used with factory 15" wheels...When you mount a 17" wheel to the older style "U" shaped control arm, at full lock, the 17" wheel would interfere with the control arm. I took note of this and talked with Bill over the phone a few times, and I gave him a few measurements on how they should bend, he applied it, and everything worked fine...So that's why there was the birth of a new control arm. :)