trunk mount battery

SpeedThrills said
What Green1 is saying is, if you're going to run at an NHRA (I guess IHRA, too) track, you have to do it their way.
BTW, ground it at the back, avoid the weight of 2 cables. Run a good ground between the engine/trans and the body if you're not using a motor plate.

I'm in seattle, the track is Pacific raceways and it's nhra. I had read pretty much everything i needed but missed or didn't see the whether i could run the cables inside or out,,, i had a fellow racer tell me inside was fine. I'm not to sure on the one cable run, yea i know it's more weight but I don't mind for the piece of mind knowing that i won't have an issue with a ground but thanks I'm thinking about it now.

StrokerScamp said
green1 is spot on. If I were you, I would grab an NHRA rule book and see. Since you said "race" car, you need to follow whatever sanctioning body regulates the track if you want to be legal. That would be a pretty big violation if they require all that on the outside. I'm sure they'd put you back on the trailer.

well being my first building of a race car I'm sure I'll have my hand slapped a few times. I'm almost guaranteeing that i'm gonna miss something. Thanks

waggin said
They even mandate what size and mannor to fasten the battery and box to the frame of the car so check out them rules before ya go at it blindly

yea I know, nhra approved box, 3/8 j bolts, they wanna make sure it doesn't flop around for sure.

crackedback said
This is the safest way to wire it up. Uses a ford solenoid and a S605 continuous duty relay on the alt line.

I agree, I'm right with ya on that one. I've a Caterpillar 12 volt solenoid and 60 amp continuous relay also from caterpillar ready and waiting

If you are using the factory wiring/alternator, you need to make an adjustment for the alt field sensing wire.

yessir duly noted. when the battery switch is off the field is opened.

thanks guys ya made me smarter