bad coil?

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CUDAGUY

aka Prince Valiant
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
613
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Location
Portland,OR
64 dart /6

I have power to the coil but cant get power from it....on 3-different coils
I also had the lead wire from the distributor burn up (has been replaced)

any Ideas? Im stumped
 
Burning up the distributor primary lead is a bad sign. I'd say, offhand, that you have a shorted coil. Points ignition, "I'm guessing"
 
yes, points....freshly adjusted as of 5-min ago, dizzy bench tested fine.
 
Where you've tried 3 different coils. Have you pulled a coil from a running car and tried it??? If you 'Know' you have a coil in hand that you know works, it will aid in troubleshooting.

It makes me wonder on wiring to the coil. Have you checked voltage on each side of the ballast resistor, coil and ignition relay wires?

Check when key is in start position and also when key is in run position. This could help you ID if it is another problem in the circuit. Doesnt happen often, but the resistor and/or the relay's can go bad.
 
I have power to the coil via the ballast resistor....something like 7.5-8 volts.

for whatever reason I cant seem to get power to the negitive side untill I disconnect it...then it arcs to the lead to the dizzy and I have power at the negitive side. No matter what I have done I cant get power to the coil wire either.

I have used 5-coils now...3 that where on running vehicles...one was a blaster 2
 
OK if you "don't have power" on the negative side it means THE DISTRIBUTOR is grounding out the negative side WHICH THE POINTS are supposed to do when they are CLOSED

So either

the points are not opening closing

the primary wire is shorted where it goes through the dist. housing

the condenser is shorted

or your wire terminal at the points is shorting out

All the distributor is (not counting the condenser) is an on/ off switch which grounds and opens the coil negative.

You should be able to put your light on the coil negative and see it flash on/ off when you do one of two things:

Either open the points manually with a tool

or crank the engine over.
 
OK if you "don't have power" on the negative side it means THE DISTRIBUTOR is grounding out the negative side WHICH THE POINTS are supposed to do when they are CLOSED

So either

the points are not opening closing

the primary wire is shorted where it goes through the dist. housing

the condenser is shorted

or your wire terminal at the points is shorting out

All the distributor is (not counting the condenser) is an on/ off switch which grounds and opens the coil negative.

You should be able to put your light on the coil negative and see it flash on/ off when you do one of two things:

Either open the points manually with a tool

or crank the engine over.
Yup.... you should also check the distributor cam and points rubbing block to make sure the points are opening and closing the same amount on all lobes. Make sure you put some cam lube on them so they don't wear out.
 
it wound up being the plastic insulator for the points had melted in a not so visable spot....new points...runs better than ever!
 
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