Shes alive an shes stayin alive!!

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Damn Mike what have you done? Might have to pull the heads now and check the valves did you match the springs for this new cam? I think on safetys side you pull the whole top half before you mess around and bust a piston or something, check you cam specks with your springs make sure your not hitting a piston and that all the valves a moving freely. when you do that pull the intake then set you heads and turn it over by hand you can watch the cam and the dist gears all work and see if there are any obvious problems. bring number 1 TDC and the set everything up check your dots and the dist while you can see everything. just be carefull and keep everything clean get you some thinner and some rags to wipe everything down with. take your time and get a book as well.
 
Ok! we found out why she wont run!bent push rods all but 5!HAHA they must hav fallin out of the lifter seat when we put the rokers on therefore it rested on the lifter lip and then bend away!im getting new ones in two days from my buddies 318 and going to try her agian this time takeing are time putin gall that crap together!and someone asked for my cam specs!Mopar Purple Shaft..Adv. Duration: .260°/268°
Dur. @ .050'': 221°/228°
Lift: .430''/.450''
Centerline: 110°
Basic RPM: 1200-5200 RP
my springs are good for 500 lift plenty to play with,i hope this is the prob cuz that makes alot of sence to me that thats why shes not going!Thanks for all your help guys i had all the repls in my head all day and all last week!Thanks MIKE :twisted: let me know what u think of the new prob.
 
so u all know what she is if ya dont know! its a 1970 318LA!ok the heads i hav are stock 318's i broke the studs on the old exhaust manifolds so they went off to the shop! cleaned and fited with 4 new valves in the back on each side,heads have no porting done at all!there all stock!they hav new valve seats and guides the springs hav been tested and they can hold 500 lift or a little more!im not close to that with the cam!
 
Mike just make sure this time to pull the intake so you can see the valley and make sure that you rods are seated in the lifters. The roll i over by hand and make sure to use pre lube , oil something on the tips. Dont just drop them down the hole and think they are good, then do like i said bring the #1 up TDC and the set it up right line the dots up and everything
should look something like this.

20045263171393855756916.jpg
 
chad72duster said:
Mike just make sure this time to pull the intake so you can see the valley and make sure that you rods are seated in the lifters. The roll i over by hand and make sure to use pre lube , oil something on the tips. Dont just drop them down the hole and think they are good, then do like i said bring the #1 up TDC and the set it up right line the dots up and everything
should look something like this.

20045263171393855756916.jpg
Thanks chad im going to do that for sure today my dad is bringing me my buddies arms and push rod and were going to test the motor agin to see if she runs!next week my new arms,push rod and pulg wires come in the mail!so if all goes good tonight well see what else needs fixed! :twisted:
 
Ok she still wont run!WTF!ok wev done it all to try to get her goin the timings is the biggest prob but its all lined up and working fine toghter i dont get it she fires on the #1 piston at TDC!the valves are ready to fire all good and lined up the balancers is at 0 the cap is facing the #2 piston and fires on the #1 wire all the wires are fine,so the timing must be fine we never degr. the cam but how bad can it be its max is how much off?i mean it should still run!right?dot to dot like it should be!What else can it be?the carb?it is fine too nice clear fuel spits fight on down the intake!could it be bad gas the tank is old and it was sitting at the other guys house for 10 yrs. with gas in the tank but the car drove me to school for about 3 weeks with that tank not even 6 months ago!WTF?Could it be spark?i still hav the points from the old dist. would it help me out if i got the elec kit from Mopar?the spark is good but it is kinda dull new plugs and wires also just got them!Help me out guys i dont know what to do!MIKE
 
well, as i just tuned my car up, and i see soooo much of a difference in her, i can vouch that plugs, wires, and generally good ignition will make the difference... as for the tank, my cousin has an 82 f-150 that he put a 351 windsor in. when he put the motor in, the truck would crank up and run for a few seconds, and die. he finally put a collector thing from a tractor (the clear catch basin that you see on the side of the motor on a tractor) inline with the fuel line before the carb to catch all the rust and stuff from the tank. it solved his problem, the gas runs clean, and the tanks must be clear.
you take what you want from what i said...
maybe it will help you out :)
 
i was thinking of runnig a bypass from a 5gal tank and see if that helped her out o bit but the funny thing is that she ran not to long ago with that tank just like that and the same carb WTF?she ran great too she killed my friends chebby's all the time even if she was tired!Funny stuff let me tell u!
 
I still think it's ignition/timing prob. You need someone who knows Dodges to come over and give it another look. You may be missing something without knowing it.
 
six pack said:
I still think it's ignition/timing prob. You need someone who knows Dodges to come over and give it another look. You may be missing something without knowing it.
I agree with Sixpak. Do you have spark??? Right now if you are getting fuel to the carb then check for spark.

Do not pass go....check for spark if it ain't a nice blue/white spark or no spark then your ignition is suspect.
 
fuel coming out the carb check needle and seat.Is the cam u put in a soild lift cam if so recheck valve lash.a real big hyl cam can run your hyl lifters out of preload specs causing them to bottom out.u end up with a solid lifter.u should have .060 preload on a hyl lifter.seen this happen once had to shim up the rocker shafts.
 
well yesterday we checked my volts with a meter and we found that the coil was getting les then 2 volts!so i went down and got an MSD blaster 2 coil!checked again and now no spark!WTF? this morning i took the Ballast Resistors off and shes wasted!thats the reson i wasnt getting spark im going down later to get a new one is there one that goes with the MSD coil?i hav the biggest felling in the back of my head that shed go if i had the coversion kit!as for as the cam shes fine still not to big for my car Adv. Duration: .260°/268°
Dur. @ .050'': 221°/228°
Lift: .430''/.450''
Centerline: 110°
Basic RPM: 1200-5200 RPM i could of got bigger if i really wanted!
 
Are you using a point distributor still ?

I wouldnt go any bigger then the cam you have know. Spend the money on an elecronic distributor instead.
 
i still hav the points and there giving me nothing but ****, i just put inew points and a condencer and gaped them to 16 and now the Ballast Resistors whent out today!
 
Ballast res. have always been problems with mopars. Buy them 2 at a time and keep the extra in the car or go with an MSD ignition and by pass it.
 
Id really start saving for an electronic ignition. You can either get the MOpar kit (summit sells the same kit with their name on it cheaper) or talk to Don at FBO (Cuda66273) He can set you up wit a kit and set a distributor up for you engine.
 
Adam do u think that if it was bad in the first place that it was helping the car not run!it did look pretty shity siting there?now its wasted!
 
THEWHITEZOMBIE said:
Adam do u think that if it was bad in the first place that it was helping the car not run!it did look pretty shity siting there?now its wasted!
^^^^^ anbody?
 
Why not borrow one from under the hood of the 67 parked right beside your car? That would make the most sense.
I would go with the Mopar electronic kit when you can afford it(comes with new resistor)
 
I had a similar problem on my 78 Trailduster 400 BB. Ran fine for months after putting in the 400 then it started back firing when excelerating. It ended up where I couldn't keep running. after replacing the cam & repeatedly messing with the timing (i was getting spark too) it ended up being too wide of a gap at the pick-up in the distributor. After setting it correctly I was slinging mud without a problem. I would recommend switching to the electronic ignition too. once it's set right you don't have to mess with the points anymore.
 
chad72duster said:
when are you going to get a ballast resistor?? i want to here this thing run!!
I had to go buy one the other day my new MSD soil fried the old one so i had to go get there MSD 8 OHM one,it all works now but i hav no fuel the elec pump got messed up from my crapy gas tank!
 
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