Newbie (273 with no fire)
OK, someone has upgraded your system to the '70/ later system.
Here's a diagram:
The "BATT" is the big output stud. Make sure you have voltage on this stud. If you have a bulkhead connector / ammeter circuit problem, this could be dead.
The top of the ignition resistor is supplied with "ignition 1" or "ignition run" from the ignition switch. Check this voltage, key in "run" engine off.
Check the blue wire down at the alternator, key on, engine off.
Both of the above should be within 1/2 volt or less as same as battery
If this checks out, get a clip lead, unhook the green push on wire at the alternator. With Key on, clip this terminal of the alternator to ground. You should see a small spark.
Recheck the other (blue) terminal with it hooked up normally. It should still be "same as battery," less than 1/2 volt lower.
If this all checks, start the car and see if it charges. If it does, you have a regulator, / regulator wiring problem
If it does NOT charge, with the engine running "fast" check the voltage at the big stud. If it's pretty high, you have a problem in the charging lead/ bulkhead connector, / ammeter circuit.
If the stud voltage is low, it simply is not charging, and you have an alternator problem.
If it DID charge OK above, you have a regulator / wiring problem. Pull the connector off the regulator, and check the green wire for continuity down to the alternator. If the alternator charged in the first test, you can easily check this wire by hooking up the green at the alternator, and grounding the green at the regulator connector. This, again, should cause the alternator to charge lots of output.
Check the other terminal in the regulator connector, the "non green." (Should be blue on most cars.) This should be hot with key in "run"
If this all checks out , replace the regulator.
OK, someone has upgraded your system to the '70/ later system.
Here's a diagram:
The "BATT" is the big output stud. Make sure you have voltage on this stud. If you have a bulkhead connector / ammeter circuit problem, this could be dead.
The top of the ignition resistor is supplied with "ignition 1" or "ignition run" from the ignition switch. Check this voltage, key in "run" engine off.
Check the blue wire down at the alternator, key on, engine off.
Both of the above should be within 1/2 volt or less as same as battery
If this checks out, get a clip lead, unhook the green push on wire at the alternator. With Key on, clip this terminal of the alternator to ground. You should see a small spark.
Recheck the other (blue) terminal with it hooked up normally. It should still be "same as battery," less than 1/2 volt lower.
If this all checks, start the car and see if it charges. If it does, you have a regulator, / regulator wiring problem
If it does NOT charge, with the engine running "fast" check the voltage at the big stud. If it's pretty high, you have a problem in the charging lead/ bulkhead connector, / ammeter circuit.
If the stud voltage is low, it simply is not charging, and you have an alternator problem.
If it DID charge OK above, you have a regulator / wiring problem. Pull the connector off the regulator, and check the green wire for continuity down to the alternator. If the alternator charged in the first test, you can easily check this wire by hooking up the green at the alternator, and grounding the green at the regulator connector. This, again, should cause the alternator to charge lots of output.
Check the other terminal in the regulator connector, the "non green." (Should be blue on most cars.) This should be hot with key in "run"
If this all checks out , replace the regulator.
