440 swap from small block
Excellent choice for an upgrade. Easy to do. The 400 - 440 bolt throughmotor mounts are what you need. The ordinary midsump oil pan is the one you want. HP pan (baffled) if you can find it, buy a windage tray from Mopar Performance for an extra 10rwhp and better oil control. I recommend cutting the sump and adding 2" and a skid plate to it as well as a 2" oil suction tube extention. HP oil pressure oil pump spring at the very least unless you add the 6 qt (extended) oil pan - then use a HVHP oil pump. The exhaust mandifolds dump the exhaust right near the middle of the steering shaft. Spaulding dodge cut the GTX exhaust manifold and welded a square extention into it to move the manifold outlet past the steering shaft before the exhuast pipe bolted to the flange.
I tried the Hooker headers (fenderwells) but they hang too low and the tires touch unless you compromise stopping by using skinny front tires. I recommend the TTI/CAAP chasis headers as they sound better, look nicer and you don't need to chop you inner fenderwells. If you chop your inner fenderwells you need to add front support bars to reagain the strength you lost.
The wiring is simple to change. The automatic is nothing to swap. The Z body 4 speeds use a special tail shaft so that the shifter can mount in the proper place behind the trans Xmember.
Doing that swap, I suggest adding aluminium rad, alum waterpump and aluminium intake manifold so the BB weighs about the same as the small block did. That will keep the handling the same.
I have my Duster and a few hundred pics of all my upgrades (tubs, battery, paint,sub frame connectors, stereo, Prostock springs, front spring hangers, Big bolt patterned 8 3/4" rear end, large driveshaft, heater, stereo, sub, peeled, etc)
Ted
Excellent choice for an upgrade. Easy to do. The 400 - 440 bolt throughmotor mounts are what you need. The ordinary midsump oil pan is the one you want. HP pan (baffled) if you can find it, buy a windage tray from Mopar Performance for an extra 10rwhp and better oil control. I recommend cutting the sump and adding 2" and a skid plate to it as well as a 2" oil suction tube extention. HP oil pressure oil pump spring at the very least unless you add the 6 qt (extended) oil pan - then use a HVHP oil pump. The exhaust mandifolds dump the exhaust right near the middle of the steering shaft. Spaulding dodge cut the GTX exhaust manifold and welded a square extention into it to move the manifold outlet past the steering shaft before the exhuast pipe bolted to the flange.
I tried the Hooker headers (fenderwells) but they hang too low and the tires touch unless you compromise stopping by using skinny front tires. I recommend the TTI/CAAP chasis headers as they sound better, look nicer and you don't need to chop you inner fenderwells. If you chop your inner fenderwells you need to add front support bars to reagain the strength you lost.
The wiring is simple to change. The automatic is nothing to swap. The Z body 4 speeds use a special tail shaft so that the shifter can mount in the proper place behind the trans Xmember.
Doing that swap, I suggest adding aluminium rad, alum waterpump and aluminium intake manifold so the BB weighs about the same as the small block did. That will keep the handling the same.
I have my Duster and a few hundred pics of all my upgrades (tubs, battery, paint,sub frame connectors, stereo, Prostock springs, front spring hangers, Big bolt patterned 8 3/4" rear end, large driveshaft, heater, stereo, sub, peeled, etc)
Ted