help with battery relocation attempt

Ok, There's about 20 ways to do this, just depends on what you want to do.

IF YOU ever intend to show up at a track, specifically an NHRA track, they have some specific rules requirements. Check out this "secret link:"

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1468778#post1468778

Some of the stuff that goes on there is that you have to have 3/8 hold down bolts and no J bolts. You must use either a sealed metal or approved plastic container which is VENTED EXTERNALLY, or you must install a metal firewall behind the back seat.

You must use a disconnect "to stop all power" or some such wordage, the switch MUST be accessable from the outside rear of the car. It must not use a key or removable hardware. It can twist off or push / pull BUT IT MUST PUSH to shut off. AND it must be in the "hot" lead, not the ground

In addition, you need to figure how to kill the alternator output, because if all you do is disconnect the battery, the engine will run on the alternator

I like to recommend the "4 post" disconnects because they provide an easy way break the alternator connection.

What is this "regulator box" you speak of? We need photos, or if you bought a kit, provide a link to the SPECIFIC kit that you bought


This business of "jumpering solenoid terminals" requires that you run a second large wire back for alternator charging I don't care for that method, some do.

Here's how I like it:

Use a 4 post disconnect, has 2 large, to small.

Run one LARGE cable up front either to starter main post or a nice big junction post, and take off from there.

Put the disconnect large posts in series with the battery hot

Ground one small post on the disconnect.

Run the other small post up front, a no14 wire is large enough.

Use a good quality relay up front, or even a "continuous duty" solenoid. Hook no14 from the disconnect to one coil terminal of your up front relay/ solenoid. Hook "switched ignition" to the other coil. Hook fused battery to one large post.

Now the last large post (contacts) becomes your "ignition run" junction. Run this to your ignition system, and the charging system/ regulator/ alternator field.

What that relay will do, when you yank the disconnect, is kill the alternator and allow the engine to die.