fishy, I was kidding too. Appreciate all responses, especially from senior members. :prayer: All I meant was Smith's heart is in the right place, vs most other media guys. I still think he got something confused in his notes.
Just pulling your leg too, LOL:D
So I take the "0.021" painted on my gear, subtract that from the nominal pinion depth, and then I shim it until I get the actual measurement to match (like the Richmond method)?
Ummm... Not sure if I'm follow you. Mainly that part about the "nominal pinion depth". Maybe because I don't know the Richmond method?? What I meant earlier is there is the depth a pinion is stated to be set at and whatever # (+ or -) is marked on the pinion is how much to vary it. i.e. lets say you have a pinion stamped 1.710 and has a -003 on it. You set it to 1.707. I'm not a differential expert by no means so I might be interpreting it wrong but that's how I read it.
I added pics to support what you said - the manual mentions numbers on the parts, but I nearly washed them off myself with just a toothbrush. If these hadn't been low mile cases, marks might be gone.
I wonder if people find shims in the case because it's easier for a hack like me? If you don't have a press, hard to press the pinion cone on & off to make corrections. There's not much on the cone to grab on, and I'd probably screw up the basket trying. Sounds easier to tap the race out of the case, refreeze it & tap it back in with a shim behind it?
PH