manhours for front suspension rebuild?

A few more things to add to what others have already said;
There are techniques to remove torsion bars without a tool, but as cheap as they are to come by, you really need a torsion bar tool (I made mine), and an upper ball joint socket (they're 3/4" drive by the way) at the very least.
Leaving the upper control arms on the car until you break the upper ball joints loose is usually the easy way. Don't be surprised if you need a length a pipe to extend the leverage on that breaker bar.
My neighbor used vise grips to remove his V8 bars and even though I'm going to show him how to sand out the grooves and gouges with a 4" angle grinder, there's no guarantee they won't fail.
Stock these cars are in dire need of more caster. Moog offset upper bushings are the next best thing to tubular upper control arms for gaining some and a damn sight cheaper.
Although roughly 3/8" taller between the ball joints, the later B body and transverse bar car uprights will interchange, have a stronger spindle, and save a couple of pounds per side. Getting easier to find than the A body stuff, too.
Adapting to the larger (12") rotor is as simple as finding the correct caliper bracket for your style of caliper.
The Factory Service Manual is your friend.
Dick Ross is one of the most knowledable guys out there about the chassis of these cars. Although it hasn't been updated in a while and even if you don't plan on buying any of his stuff, a visit to his website (firmfeel.com) helps you get a feel for how things go together.
It's probably over 10 years old now, but reading Rick Ehrenberg's Disc o tech article (moparaction.com/tech/archive) should be a must.
Ditto what the guy that said about getting another set of front end parts and rejuvenating them at your leisure before you blow your car apart.