Edelbrock oil leak. Finally figured out why!
I was told 400 degrees before any softening begins. My friend Bob Snyder @ Snyder Race Engines says he's used it for years in his race engines for bonding lifter valley screens to the block and has never had any issues with it coming loose or melting so I guess that convinced me to give it a try. But he also said that there are two different types of JB Weld. He said not to use the quick set 5 minute stuff as it isn't as good. Get the type that takes 24 hours to fully cure.
Excellent find 416! Thx!
Not to hijack the main theme, I however wanted to add a note
on JB WELD for those whom are hesitant to use same in a 'critical'
repair area...
I recently replaced a surge tank on one of My fleet vehicles,
the tank has a soldered in bung for a coolant level sight glass.
As a bad day would have it, no glass in stock to replace the broken one.
In lieu of the glass,I used the #8265 product , coated a brass plug , and
installed same.
The new tank failed (2 days later) on a seam & needed to be replaced...
Still no restock of the sight glass... So what the hey! just heat up the JB
(o/a torch) remove and reuse the plug? hahaha LMAO.
looooong story short---
Heating the plug...the soldered in bung & plug fell off the tank...
So for giggles I put the bung in a vise heated it to dull red!, but never did get the plug out ... I would say 400 degrees very conservatively.
Heard stories, that made a believer out of Me. sorry to get OT.