**Twin Turbo 67 Dart Project**
Hey Lou; I have been in contact with these guys for an option to the megasquirt that is reasonable as well.
http://www.affordable-fuel-injection.com/
They say that they have built several dual tb systems,like I want and that it works very well. I am hoping theier engineer gives me a responce soon so I can have a price nailed down. It might not be bad. All I need is a harness and control box.
Sounds like you got a plan & that is a good thing. I am curious how much their set up will cost.
On another note, I did talk to the MS Tuner today that has over 10 Years Experience with Megasquirts, we talked for about 45 minutes or so. He questioned me to the max and told me I probably will not need his assistance because he feels where I am headed is the solution to the problem. There is a problem with the MS3 having Low Tooth Count Issues. The Fast Distributor has 8 Teeth that are 90* apart "Low Tooth Count Wheel" It does not send enough information to the ECU and will cause a misfire at every cylinder. The fix to that problem is to run a 36:1 Crank Trigger along with using the Dizzy for the cam signal only. He also told me that
Rotor Phasing is Absolutely Critical and if it is off by 20* from the pin in the cap there more than likely be spark jump. This along with the #1 Crank Tooth Angle being Dead on and using the 36:1 Wheel should fix the problem.
When the 8 LS Coils were used the results were the same. He told me that the reasoning was we still were using the Fast Dizzy that has the 'Low tooth Count" 8 teeth --90* apart, and would make the results the same Regardless of how many coils we were running.
So here is what he told me.
1) Run a 36:1 Wheel
2) Make sure to Phase the Rotor in EXACTLY in the middle of Pin#1 inside the Dizzy with the Crank Timing mark right at 20-25* BTDC on #1, Lock the Distributor down and DO NOT MOVE IT AGAIN!!
3) Get the
EXACT #1 Crank Tooth Angle by getting TDC on #1, Rolling the engine backwards to say 60* BTDC and line up Tooth #1 on the 36:1 Wheel Dead center of the Hall Sensor & input that 60* into your ECU ignition settings for the tooth #1 angle.
"DONT EVER MAKE A CHANGE TO THE TOOTH #1 SETTING ONCE IT IS CALCULATED"
4) Make sure the #1 Crank Tooth Angle and the Cam Signal Do not happen at the same time. 30-40* apart is good number.