**600hp sbm block limit? Or is it bs!!**

Mad Dart said
Turbodart68 aka Chris is well versed in the boost game. You should PM him and pick his brain!

Thanks, I still need to call you too. I am not ignoring you, just really busy.

catfishdw said
i will. mad dart u kool people.

He is cool, just a little "mad" at times when it comes to boost. Haha. No seriously, A Procharger is an awesome piece. I have had a hand in a 434" Chivvy with a F3R and a Ford with a F2R. I have to say the Chevy hated the Procharger and it worked the front of the crank and broke it a few times. It now has a Big block snout on a Callies Magnum crank, problem solved. I think his highest HP number was in the 1400 range at the tires at 24 pounds of boost. The Ford had a Windsor and never broke the crank but it did drop a valve at 8500 on the dyno twice before we found that it was so lean on one cylinder that it melted the TI exhaust valve. We used a wide band O2 sensor and it indicated we were rich and I finally welded an O2 bung in each tube and made a few easy pulls to find that it wanted a jet in the right rear that was 10 jet sizes bigger than the rest. That why I was making a big deal about hats and blow through carbs. Point is that I think the Procharger will work well, I am interested to see how the snout holds up. I would inspect it after each trip to the track. If you can catch it early it can be fixed. I would also consider machining the crank for 2 keyways. Oh, and I like those aluminum W2s!!

Rodzilla said
Can hard block filler be used on a street car or will that be instant cooling headaches, if it can then how much, I have never seen it done and know nothing of what to use or how to apply it? I have an aluminum 4 core rad and so far only a single electric fan. Could the heat be beat?

I have had a little experience with half hard block (not in one of my Mopars, it was a procharged Ford actually) it seems to work fine if you go to the bottom of the freeze plugs. Oil temp is key. If it gets hot it will kill the bearings.