273 stalling - diagnose?
Earliest shop manual download I know of "fer free" is for a 66 but that should be close enough to your 65. I suggest you do that first and do some reading:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
Here's the direct link for the '66 manual:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
Generally, the way the "choke pull off" works is like this:
The engine, shut down, gets cold, the choke thermostat moves, putting pressure against the choke linkage.
When you floor the throttle and let off, this "sets" the choke. Moving the throttle allows the step on the fast idle cam to "clear" and allows the spring pressure of the choke thermostat to close the choke, so when you let off the throttle, the choke is closed, and the fast idle cam is "set."
When you fire the car, the vacuum of the engine, even turning over, may "suck open" the choke some amount, designed into the beast to prevent too much choking.
When the engine starts, an OVER choke situation exists. The CHOKE PULL OFF (sometimes hidden, IE Holley style choke stats) is a vacuum diaphragm or piston that is hooked directly to manifold vacuum
This "pull off" operates on engine vacuum, and opens the choke a TINY PREDETERMINED amount. If it does not work (blown diaphragm, gummed up piston, missing linkage, out of adjustment, whatever.......) then the choke OVER chokes the engine, causing black smoke, puking, sputtering, and dying
In this sideways photo, the pulloff is the little round device on the "top left" of the carb, with the U shaped link wire coming out. This U shape wire is what you bend to adjust the specification. Not visible is a short little vacuum hose that comes out the back and goes into the base of the carb
The shop manual will have a "spec" on how to adjust for your carb
IDLE
FIRST you want to set the ignition points if you have them
SECOND you want to get the timing where you want
THIRD you "rough in" the park/ neutral idle speed and get the engine FULLY to warm operating temp.
FOURTH adjust the idle mixture screws. back them out some, then slowly turn in until you hear the engine drop in RPM, or watch a tach. Adjust them back out until the RPM JUST comes back up. Do this back and forth for both screws, and readjust the idle SPEED if necessary to keep within reason.
IF you have a vacuum gauge, you can go back and forth between the idle mixture screws and adjust them as above, alternately for HIGHEST manifold vacuum
(What you want is highest RPM smooth idle, "leaning" toward the "lean" side, or turning the screws in (cw)
NOW that you have this all done, finally adjust your idle speed, and for an automatic, this means IN GEAR, so block the wheels, set the brake, and if possible, use a second person with their foot on the brake.
The "tuneup" books (and the shop manual) will have specs on idle speed, l but I tend to use that only as a guide. Especially if a car has a different cam/ intake/ carb/ etc etc I tend to set the idle to my own liking. In fact, as I said, I like to set it about as high as I can without excessive forward creep in gear.
On my 67, which now has a 360/ stock converter/ mild cam, the idle is about 900 or 950 in neutral. I ALWAYS kick it into neutral at a light, habit, I guess, from my "stick" days.
Earliest shop manual download I know of "fer free" is for a 66 but that should be close enough to your 65. I suggest you do that first and do some reading:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
Here's the direct link for the '66 manual:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
Generally, the way the "choke pull off" works is like this:
The engine, shut down, gets cold, the choke thermostat moves, putting pressure against the choke linkage.
When you floor the throttle and let off, this "sets" the choke. Moving the throttle allows the step on the fast idle cam to "clear" and allows the spring pressure of the choke thermostat to close the choke, so when you let off the throttle, the choke is closed, and the fast idle cam is "set."
When you fire the car, the vacuum of the engine, even turning over, may "suck open" the choke some amount, designed into the beast to prevent too much choking.
When the engine starts, an OVER choke situation exists. The CHOKE PULL OFF (sometimes hidden, IE Holley style choke stats) is a vacuum diaphragm or piston that is hooked directly to manifold vacuum
This "pull off" operates on engine vacuum, and opens the choke a TINY PREDETERMINED amount. If it does not work (blown diaphragm, gummed up piston, missing linkage, out of adjustment, whatever.......) then the choke OVER chokes the engine, causing black smoke, puking, sputtering, and dying
In this sideways photo, the pulloff is the little round device on the "top left" of the carb, with the U shaped link wire coming out. This U shape wire is what you bend to adjust the specification. Not visible is a short little vacuum hose that comes out the back and goes into the base of the carb
The shop manual will have a "spec" on how to adjust for your carb
IDLE
FIRST you want to set the ignition points if you have them
SECOND you want to get the timing where you want
THIRD you "rough in" the park/ neutral idle speed and get the engine FULLY to warm operating temp.
FOURTH adjust the idle mixture screws. back them out some, then slowly turn in until you hear the engine drop in RPM, or watch a tach. Adjust them back out until the RPM JUST comes back up. Do this back and forth for both screws, and readjust the idle SPEED if necessary to keep within reason.
IF you have a vacuum gauge, you can go back and forth between the idle mixture screws and adjust them as above, alternately for HIGHEST manifold vacuum
(What you want is highest RPM smooth idle, "leaning" toward the "lean" side, or turning the screws in (cw)
NOW that you have this all done, finally adjust your idle speed, and for an automatic, this means IN GEAR, so block the wheels, set the brake, and if possible, use a second person with their foot on the brake.
The "tuneup" books (and the shop manual) will have specs on idle speed, l but I tend to use that only as a guide. Especially if a car has a different cam/ intake/ carb/ etc etc I tend to set the idle to my own liking. In fact, as I said, I like to set it about as high as I can without excessive forward creep in gear.
On my 67, which now has a 360/ stock converter/ mild cam, the idle is about 900 or 950 in neutral. I ALWAYS kick it into neutral at a light, habit, I guess, from my "stick" days.
