New 318 roller cam setup
Old 318 (1971 block, 73 340 heads)
New Setup
As most of you know, I traded my 1978 Dodge D150 Bigblock pickup for a 1974 Dodge Dart Sport recently.
I have been driving the Dart for about 4 months now, and the very first week after trading for the Dart, I was driving it back to work and it died in traffic...luckily I coasted into a Advance Auto Parts...the fuel pump had went.
Changed that out and added a new fuel filter.
It wasnt a week later I was driving it to back to work after lunch and heard a lifter give out and go to tapping...after a fresh oil change with some Lucas Oil Stabilizer it quieted down but never fully went away....
About the same time, I noticed a basketball sized puddle of coolant under it after a 5-7 mile drive....after a close inspection, discovered it was leaking out of the water pump.
I was feeling less confident about the quality of the work the previous
owner put into this engine.
I went JY'ing like I like to do and found a pretty clean 1987 Chrysler 5th avenue, talked to the yard manager and negotiated for the 318 from it for $150...I pull it, I get whatever was attached.
I pulled it myself with a small bag of tools, and about 2hrs.
I took it back to my shop where I work.
In my free time, after work, a little on Saturdays,
I tore it down and threw away the 2bbl intake, and the smog crap.
The valleys were clean and sludge free....good oil change history.
Chrysler used Moly rings in these and it was obvious...perfect bore conditions....excellent cross hatch. After removing the oil pan and finding no glitter, I was satisfied I had found a good core.
I did not remove the crank, rods, or pistons,....I didnt touch a rod bolt.
I did remove the oil pump and installed a brand new DRY HV oil pump....not primed or anything.
I did not remove the OEM Cam, or lifters or spider.
I did remove the 302 casting cylinder heads, rockers, and pushrods.
I disassembled the heads, and cleaned all the valves, springs, and retainers, locks. I vatted the heads and inspected all the valve seats and combustion chambers. I lapped all the valves to their seats, and lubricated them and installed new valve seals, and reassembled them. No port cleanup, or gasket matching.
I removed all the freeze plugs and flushed the block with B12 Carb spray and compressed air while it was upside down on the stand, and installed all brass freeze plugs with a light coating of High Tack sealer after.
I removed the timing cover and there was some signifigant slack in the Nylon Cam Gear equipped timing set....I removed that and ordered, recieved and installed a TRW True Roller chain set and MP chain tensioner.
I used the Standard Felpro SBM gasket set, and used the cork intake manifold end seals. I torqued the intake down and trimmed the squeezed out cork smooth with the rails.
The old harmonic balancer looked questionable so I ordered, recieved and installed a new harmonic balancer.
I took my time and primed and painted everything on the longblock EXCEPT the valve covers....(long story - I intended to install some MP valve covers but got denied because I didnt have the right bolts!!!)
I started at 7:30am yesterday morning and finished the R&R and had it cranked up and timing set by 6pm last night.
[ame="http://youtu.be/LFh9FEQ_2e0"]302 Found[/ame]
I couldnt find a good Mopar Turqoise localy so I found a cool Frosty Light Metallic Blue and I think it turned out fantastic.
Sounds good, runs smooth, idles great, and hasnt leaked a drop yet.
Yeah, I am bragging....it cranked off on the 3rd key/start.
I am going to eventually remove the Thermoquad and swap on a Edelbrock 600 that a member here was real careful to pack up and ship out for me
(it will still probably rebuild) (BUT STILL???)...and see if I like it any better. I have a Holley 650 DP, but I am saving that for my Duster...and its Single Turbo setup.
Questions, Comments?
Old 318 (1971 block, 73 340 heads)
New Setup
As most of you know, I traded my 1978 Dodge D150 Bigblock pickup for a 1974 Dodge Dart Sport recently.
I have been driving the Dart for about 4 months now, and the very first week after trading for the Dart, I was driving it back to work and it died in traffic...luckily I coasted into a Advance Auto Parts...the fuel pump had went.
Changed that out and added a new fuel filter.
It wasnt a week later I was driving it to back to work after lunch and heard a lifter give out and go to tapping...after a fresh oil change with some Lucas Oil Stabilizer it quieted down but never fully went away....
About the same time, I noticed a basketball sized puddle of coolant under it after a 5-7 mile drive....after a close inspection, discovered it was leaking out of the water pump.
I was feeling less confident about the quality of the work the previous
owner put into this engine.
I went JY'ing like I like to do and found a pretty clean 1987 Chrysler 5th avenue, talked to the yard manager and negotiated for the 318 from it for $150...I pull it, I get whatever was attached.
I pulled it myself with a small bag of tools, and about 2hrs.
I took it back to my shop where I work.
In my free time, after work, a little on Saturdays,
I tore it down and threw away the 2bbl intake, and the smog crap.
The valleys were clean and sludge free....good oil change history.
Chrysler used Moly rings in these and it was obvious...perfect bore conditions....excellent cross hatch. After removing the oil pan and finding no glitter, I was satisfied I had found a good core.
I did not remove the crank, rods, or pistons,....I didnt touch a rod bolt.
I did remove the oil pump and installed a brand new DRY HV oil pump....not primed or anything.
I did not remove the OEM Cam, or lifters or spider.
I did remove the 302 casting cylinder heads, rockers, and pushrods.
I disassembled the heads, and cleaned all the valves, springs, and retainers, locks. I vatted the heads and inspected all the valve seats and combustion chambers. I lapped all the valves to their seats, and lubricated them and installed new valve seals, and reassembled them. No port cleanup, or gasket matching.
I removed all the freeze plugs and flushed the block with B12 Carb spray and compressed air while it was upside down on the stand, and installed all brass freeze plugs with a light coating of High Tack sealer after.
I removed the timing cover and there was some signifigant slack in the Nylon Cam Gear equipped timing set....I removed that and ordered, recieved and installed a TRW True Roller chain set and MP chain tensioner.
I used the Standard Felpro SBM gasket set, and used the cork intake manifold end seals. I torqued the intake down and trimmed the squeezed out cork smooth with the rails.
The old harmonic balancer looked questionable so I ordered, recieved and installed a new harmonic balancer.
I took my time and primed and painted everything on the longblock EXCEPT the valve covers....(long story - I intended to install some MP valve covers but got denied because I didnt have the right bolts!!!)
I started at 7:30am yesterday morning and finished the R&R and had it cranked up and timing set by 6pm last night.
[ame="http://youtu.be/LFh9FEQ_2e0"]302 Found[/ame]
I couldnt find a good Mopar Turqoise localy so I found a cool Frosty Light Metallic Blue and I think it turned out fantastic.
Sounds good, runs smooth, idles great, and hasnt leaked a drop yet.
Yeah, I am bragging....it cranked off on the 3rd key/start.
I am going to eventually remove the Thermoquad and swap on a Edelbrock 600 that a member here was real careful to pack up and ship out for me
(it will still probably rebuild) (BUT STILL???)...and see if I like it any better. I have a Holley 650 DP, but I am saving that for my Duster...and its Single Turbo setup.
Questions, Comments?