New 318 roller cam setup

No.

There is a very different lobe pattern on a Roller Cam than a Flat Tappet Hydraulic Cam. It is obvious if you are holding 2 cams side by side.

The roller cam has a very fast ramp (up), and almost a flat section in the tip of the lobe and a fast close ramp. The flat tappet cam has more pointy lobes with a small pointy almost tip of the lobe.

The difference is the roller lifter translates the motion to the pushrod which in turn translates to the rocker and valve, faster, and with less friction, which equals more effecient.

What you gain is more vacuum, and a smoother less friction valvetrain.

There are places out there that sell off the shelf Hyd. Roller Cams'. But I would have one custom ground to my own recipe.

Split Duration
224-I / 232-E@ .050, 268/272 advertised .500" lift 110* centerline
is a good power maker, street driver, with great sound and manners...with all the supporting mods...4bbl, headers, duals, 3.23/3.55's...yummy....with boost, will be delicious.

Now, to answer your question Rob.
I do not HAVE a Turbo setup just yet....that SBchevy pic just illustrates the layout and gives a good visual of what my SBM-1T is gonna look like....Louis makes the magic happen faster than I do. I am going to custom make my own system...Alot like Cuudak has,....and STAY BLOW THROUGH, with a CSU boost prepped carb, but with a small block.
89' 360 roller cam, stock internal longblock, with windage tray, and timing tensioner added...stock crank, rods, CAST pistons...(they are 8.5:1)
I am going to get with Precision Turbo Engineering and custom SPEC my compressor and exhaust sides....probably NOT going to buy a Ebay variant....just because its hard to get what you pay for when you cant spec your wheel/choke sizes...except by Ebay's selection....costs 700-1000 bucks, but in the end, its the right one, and right for the setup.

MY power goal for my Duster is 600rwhp.