Cutting strut rod bushings for correct geometry?

I understand the bushing's effect on alignment and how they have to be the correct thickness. Which is exactly why I need to cut mine in the first place, the back bushing is too thick and pushed the control arm back which threw off the alignment and put strain on the roll pin that you're talking about. My car originally came with two-piece bushings BTW they were just much thinner. I need to cut the front bushing and shorten the sleeve a bit so the nut on the end of the strut rod will screw on far enough (like stock) to insert a cotterpin for safety. And that site I linked has specs on exactly how much to cut to get correct geometry.

I went to the parts shed and grabbed a set of strut rods for a 72 back (top in pic) and a 73 up (bottom in pic) You can see the difference in length flang to flange And also the room for the bushing between the washers . The washers on the 72 back canot be reversed to mimmic the 73 up. On the 72 back the nut bottoms on the sholuder. no sleeve like the 73 up. There is no way a 2 piece for a 73 would work on the on a 72 back correctly. This is just some info you all might want to know. Pictures do not lie the rod lengths are different.