Cutting strut rod bushings for correct geometry?

That moog bushing is for easy instalation and allow more motion. One piece bushings have to be pulled in from the rear with a installation tool. The cupped washers on the one piece incase the bushing which dose not allow enough movement. The washers on the later two piece only sqeeze the inner part of the bushing stoping back and forth mottion and allowing alot more up and down motion. If you were to put a swivel on as hotchkis did you would not even need the bushng. The bushing is to allow movement so the strut rods do not snap under severe driving conditions. If you only drive your car on smooth roads or don't have the power to flex the suspension under acceleration. You will never have a proplem. My first poly bushing kit ended up on the street in pieces after a couple of launches and puting alot of pressure on them from the roll control. When you break your first strut rod from binding and the wheel destroys your fender. Don't say I didn't warn you all. Yes you want to get rid of as much forward and rear ward motion as possible but you want to increase its motion of pivot up and down to protect the rod. One of the reasons for upper a-arm bumper extensions and tie cables on early a-body race cars. I have been doing this for many years and have seen what happens to those who think they know because they got away with it for awhile. What do you think causes struts to break? Or Bend? They always break at the end where they are attached