Cutting strut rod bushings for correct geometry?

Oldmanmopar said
If I was involved with championship black top oval racing as you are . I wouldn't be using stamped steel arms and struts from the 60's. With whats on the market today there is tubular arms and coil overs. also cambered spindles. and suspension built for evey application. I am not saying I am the professional here. But I am stating facts on how the average person can resolve a problem without a saw and a hammer.

There's a time and place for everything. My car is still street driven. But yes, I have now changed/upgraded to heim tubular upper control arms, heim tie rods, and heim strut rods. Mostly for the precision, not that I thought the stock stuff would break on me. Most aftermarket stuff is no more reliable milage-wise than stock. The picture I showed above with the cut poly bushing is just after putting in the full Hotchkis kit. The factory stuff mostly breaks when it's rusted or broken parts have overstressed other parts.

Cutting the bushing to the factory length is not modifying the geometry. Just putting it back to where it was stock. Then using the replacement style flatter type washers that you common see on cars from replacement kits over the years. The whole assembly is greased for movement and to prevent squeaking

Are you saying not to use poly bushings at all? Or just that you should leave the thick ones only on the 73-76 strut rods?

When yours broke did you use the early one piece poly bushing or the thicker 73-76 two piece type?

If you are putting spacers under the upper control arm of your race car, you must be pulling the front wheels off the ground or close go it. Then the car comes down. Do you think the stress that action put on the strut rod have any weakening effect on it prior to you putting on poly strut rods?