no fire,a bit lost....
Is there reason to suspect the wiring has been chopped up?
Do you have a wiring diagram?
If you wired (correctly) from the battery to the "key side" of the ballast resistor, and get no spark,
first check the ballast or try a new one.
Find out WHY you have no power from the key. Your no 1 suspect is the bulkhead wiring connector
Pull the distributor connector, the ballast connectors, and the ECU connectors and work them all in/ out several times to "scrub" the terminals clean
Put your meter on low AC volts, and connect the meter to the two distributor terminals, and crank the engine. The distributor should act as a tiny generator, and should produce more than 1/2 volt, and better, 1 volt AC. If not, check the reluctor to pickup gap in the dist. Use a brass feeler gauge, .008". Believe it or not, "O reallys" stocks these
If none of this works you may have a bad ECU
Is the ballast 2 or 4 terminal, the deal is----------------
The earlier "5 terminal" ECUs MUST use a 4 terminal ballast
The later "4 terminal" ECUs CAN use EITHER a 2 or 4 terminal ballast
So if you wire the car for a 4 terminal ballast you can use EITHER an early or late ECU
You can NOT tell a 4 or 5 pin ECU by looking, because some 4 pin ones still have 5 terminals. You must check with an ohmeter at the 5th pin to see if it's hooked up.
Some simplified diagrams:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18
4 terminal ECU, 2 terminal ballast:
5 terminal ECU, 4 terminal ballast. Note the diagram of the ballast. "It matters" how it's hooked up
Note the upside down U at bottom of ballast in diagram
Is there reason to suspect the wiring has been chopped up?
Do you have a wiring diagram?
If you wired (correctly) from the battery to the "key side" of the ballast resistor, and get no spark,
first check the ballast or try a new one.
Find out WHY you have no power from the key. Your no 1 suspect is the bulkhead wiring connector
Pull the distributor connector, the ballast connectors, and the ECU connectors and work them all in/ out several times to "scrub" the terminals clean
Put your meter on low AC volts, and connect the meter to the two distributor terminals, and crank the engine. The distributor should act as a tiny generator, and should produce more than 1/2 volt, and better, 1 volt AC. If not, check the reluctor to pickup gap in the dist. Use a brass feeler gauge, .008". Believe it or not, "O reallys" stocks these
If none of this works you may have a bad ECU
Is the ballast 2 or 4 terminal, the deal is----------------
The earlier "5 terminal" ECUs MUST use a 4 terminal ballast
The later "4 terminal" ECUs CAN use EITHER a 2 or 4 terminal ballast
So if you wire the car for a 4 terminal ballast you can use EITHER an early or late ECU
You can NOT tell a 4 or 5 pin ECU by looking, because some 4 pin ones still have 5 terminals. You must check with an ohmeter at the 5th pin to see if it's hooked up.
Some simplified diagrams:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=18
4 terminal ECU, 2 terminal ballast:
5 terminal ECU, 4 terminal ballast. Note the diagram of the ballast. "It matters" how it's hooked up
Note the upside down U at bottom of ballast in diagram