turbo 6 bangers post here
Ok i know theres already a thread started on here bout this but they get all jumbled up now if ur doing one then post up what ur doing .. speces and what not to help any one that mite be thinking of doing a turbo slant .. now i know bill will be here soon lol now lets see it bill heres the spot u know i would like to see it so show it and the rest of u to .. btw sticky :happy1: so some one can find it would be nice
This was originally posted in the wrong thread. Here it is where it belongs:
"There are some major factors ($$$$$$$) that would keep someone from jumping into this with both feet, and going whole hog on a turbo project. In this case, knowledge IS power!
If you REALLY want to reap the benefits of forced induction to the extent that your car is a vehicle that makes people say, "Wow; does that thing really have a six in it," just like you would if you were going to build normaly-aspirated mid 10-second small block A-Body, it's going to cost some serious cash.
When boost levels go much above 10 pounds (which they must, to achieve the kind of power levels to make "gee whiz" horsepower,) it puts a strain on the reciprocating assembly. To deal with that, forged (instead of cast) pistons and aftermarket rods are necessary to maximize reliability. Biggger valves are needed in the
cylinder head (and, bigger ports to go along with them,) and those items are not cheap.
An intercooler may (and, probably will) be necessary... and sometimes an alcohol injector system as well, is used to stave off the dreaded detonation monster. That can cost upwards of $800.00 for those two "insurance" items.
The MSD ignition company makes a handy, boost retard unit called a "Boostmaster" which has a dash-mounted control that allows you to tailor your maximum spark advance to an amount you think will work with the octane rating of the fuel being burned at the moment. That MSD unit has settings that will retard the spark 1, 2, or 3 degrees for every pound of boost it "sees" up tp a maximum of 15 degrees.
Nice to have for the street, but again, more money.
If you choose to run a carburetor, it will have to be modified by someone who knows what they are doing, to get it to operate correctly under boost. I paid $900.00 for such a carburetor, but there are more reasonable deals around.
These are just SOME of the ways that a turbocharged engine can be expensive. There are more; the fuel system, for example, is quite different from a normally-aspirated engine's fuel system because it must overcome whatever amount of boost you decided to run, in addition to supplying 6 or 7 pounds of pressure to the needles and seats..
Some run a half-inch fuel line from the tank or fuel cell, to the regulator beside the carburetor. That half-inch line holds enough fuel to weigh a significant amount, and the acceleration immediately off the line can force that fuel "backwards" which is another added pressure issue (on top of boost) that must be overcome by sufficient fuel pressure from the pump.
So, it's an expensive proposition to do this right. But the rewards are great...
More later."
