1970 Duster, Trans-Am-inspired "Pro Touring" build
Wow I didn't realize how long it's been since I last posted in here. So a lot has happened since then, my parents house has been sold since December 30th and everything is out of there. The new engine is in the car and it is very close to being ready for the first start-up. Needless to say I've learned quite a bit over the past couple months when it comes to modifying old cars to this extent, mainly that I will never attempt this again until I have a job with a yearly salary LOL!! Not to mention my own garage... The car has been parked at a local Monument auto shop since the end of last year as I put it back together so I can drive it up here to my apartment in Denver.
Some pics of the engine going in the car:
Here's the car more recently, soon after I got the front suspension back together and the new wheels and tires on. You may notice the wheels stick out pretty far; the 15 x 7" slotted mags have too little backspacing (3.25") and the 215/65R15 Firestones rub the fenders badly when turning. I found a pair of new 15 x 7" big-bolt Rallyes at a big swap meet last weekend in Denver with the factory 4.25" backspacing which should make the tires fit from what I've read on here.
The other big issue was with exhaust. I had an old 340 driver-side manifold that had been brazed to fix a crack; unfortunately the brazing material interfered with the head when the manifold was mated to bolt on. After a couple hours with a grinder I got enough material off so it would sit flush with the flange; only to find I had broken through to the crack! AHHHH!!! :banghead::banghead::banghead: So I took the way out that seemed most worth the money and bought a set of Hedman Tight Tubes shorty headers. The downpipes had to be fab'd anyways so I figured it would cost as much as a replacement 340 manifold.
So at this point all that's left to do is swap the wheels, fill it with oil and antifreeze, and put in a new billet oil filter plate and stud. I stupidly put the old one on backwards with the 3/8" socket extension drive outwards and broke the stud when I went to remove it. The stock stamped filter plate didn't seal when I went to prime the oil pump and spewed oil all over the ground. Once that's done we'll see if it starts, hopefully it won't blow up or seize after all this hard work and spent money!
Wow I didn't realize how long it's been since I last posted in here. So a lot has happened since then, my parents house has been sold since December 30th and everything is out of there. The new engine is in the car and it is very close to being ready for the first start-up. Needless to say I've learned quite a bit over the past couple months when it comes to modifying old cars to this extent, mainly that I will never attempt this again until I have a job with a yearly salary LOL!! Not to mention my own garage... The car has been parked at a local Monument auto shop since the end of last year as I put it back together so I can drive it up here to my apartment in Denver.
Some pics of the engine going in the car:
Here's the car more recently, soon after I got the front suspension back together and the new wheels and tires on. You may notice the wheels stick out pretty far; the 15 x 7" slotted mags have too little backspacing (3.25") and the 215/65R15 Firestones rub the fenders badly when turning. I found a pair of new 15 x 7" big-bolt Rallyes at a big swap meet last weekend in Denver with the factory 4.25" backspacing which should make the tires fit from what I've read on here.
The other big issue was with exhaust. I had an old 340 driver-side manifold that had been brazed to fix a crack; unfortunately the brazing material interfered with the head when the manifold was mated to bolt on. After a couple hours with a grinder I got enough material off so it would sit flush with the flange; only to find I had broken through to the crack! AHHHH!!! :banghead::banghead::banghead: So I took the way out that seemed most worth the money and bought a set of Hedman Tight Tubes shorty headers. The downpipes had to be fab'd anyways so I figured it would cost as much as a replacement 340 manifold.
So at this point all that's left to do is swap the wheels, fill it with oil and antifreeze, and put in a new billet oil filter plate and stud. I stupidly put the old one on backwards with the 3/8" socket extension drive outwards and broke the stud when I went to remove it. The stock stamped filter plate didn't seal when I went to prime the oil pump and spewed oil all over the ground. Once that's done we'll see if it starts, hopefully it won't blow up or seize after all this hard work and spent money!