*Realistic expectations..C-mon jump in!

Ok, I have decided it is time for me to ask for some opinions. I recently purchased my fist Mopar. The 340 has a lifter knock, I will be replacing the entire valve train in the next few weeks. There are a lot choices out there and I have spent many hours pouring through the "Search" function on the site. Here is my combo,.30 over 340 stock crank and 10.25:1 cr XHeads with stainless valves and 1970 Hipo manifolds 2.50" TTi exhaust (H pipe) The car wieghs 4200bs and has stock ralley wheels with 26" tall tires. Rear end ratio is unconfirmed @ 3.23:1 possi 8.75 carrier. The 904 does'nt seem to have any stall, I will be pulling the engine this week, so a stall convertor is planed. I am looking to do a "Roller" set up, Lifters,Camshaft and Rockers. I would like to retain the manifolds and gears, what's a good grind for a roller cam? I like a weekend warrior type approch, push the limt of street use and the odd track day. The car will be used twice a week in the summer months.

Thanks.
Woodie

The 340 in its stock displacement config is VERY easy to overcam, especially with an auto behind it. Like Rumblefish says, don't go over 220-225 @ .050" keep an eye on the LSA-with manifolds-overlap will be a factor. I also wouldn't bother with a ROLLER to tell you the truth. Why? Well, because IMO, a roller should be used when you are after as much valve lift with a tight seat duration, All X, J, '596, production non ported castings experience a "stall" in airflow at about the .430-.450" height. I personally would just grab a real good Hydraulic flat grind like the Lunati VooDoo 60402 and try it. Save the hydro-roller for a more serious build effort and then make it a custom--they are well worth it.

This is as honest as I can be. Hope this doesn't add confusion--Seriously a roller setup would be a waste at this level IMO. Unless you just have to have one--save your money for heads, maybe a stroker bottom end, etc.....

J.Rob