distributer help
Especially on a slant, which has limited "distributor swing" it is important to get the dist. gear meshed just right. Here's how I do it, similar to above
It is ALWAYS a good idea to use a piston stop on an UN known engine to first determine that the timing marks / balancer is accurate. You only have to do this once, and if you're confident the marks are OK, skip that
So determine the compression stroke by sticking something, a hose, etc into the no1 plug hole, bump the engine until you feel compression IF the VC is off set the marks so the no1 valves are both CLOSED
BUT DO NOT SET the marks on TDC. Set them INSTEAD for whatever timing figure you want, IE as above, 10 BTC etc
Next, with the cap on the dist in your hand, make a small mark as accurately as you can directly under the no1 plug tower onto the dist. case. Remove the cap, and make a small file index on the TOP rim of the dist case in line with your first mark.
NOW YOU HAVE a permanent, easy mark for the rotor.
Insert the dist "where you think" it should go, and end up with the rotor pointing to your mark.
NEXT RETARD the dist. so the points are closed. (clockwise) Either use an ohmeter, or hook up the ignition and turn the key to run and use a test lamp. SLOWLY advance the dist. (counterclockwise) until the points open, I.E. your test lamp lights. Snug down the dist.
Examine the dist adjusting slot and make sure you have a "little room" for adjustment. If you are "all the way" to one end, you probably need to change one gear tooth, or adjust the sliding hickeydo on the dist. flange.
If you have a breakerless system, just set the dist. so the the reluctor tip is in the middle of the core of the pickup, and the rotor should be "just approaching" or "at" your no1 tower mark.
Once you learn to do this, the car should fire right up with no fuss just like it had been parked overnight.
Couple of other things. Don't forget to examine / clean the dist cam for dirt and hardened grease, as well as a general once - over for proper weight / advance operation and excessive shaft / bearing play. Put a tiny drop of grease on the APPROACH side of the points rubbing block.
SET YOUR POINTS just slightly "open" more than the book, as the rubbing block will wear. Recheck/ reset the gap / timing in a couple of months
SET YOUR TIMING a couple of degrees more advanced than you normally run it for the same reason above. The points gap will wear "shut" and the timing will retard.
Especially on a slant, which has limited "distributor swing" it is important to get the dist. gear meshed just right. Here's how I do it, similar to above
It is ALWAYS a good idea to use a piston stop on an UN known engine to first determine that the timing marks / balancer is accurate. You only have to do this once, and if you're confident the marks are OK, skip that
So determine the compression stroke by sticking something, a hose, etc into the no1 plug hole, bump the engine until you feel compression IF the VC is off set the marks so the no1 valves are both CLOSED
BUT DO NOT SET the marks on TDC. Set them INSTEAD for whatever timing figure you want, IE as above, 10 BTC etc
Next, with the cap on the dist in your hand, make a small mark as accurately as you can directly under the no1 plug tower onto the dist. case. Remove the cap, and make a small file index on the TOP rim of the dist case in line with your first mark.
NOW YOU HAVE a permanent, easy mark for the rotor.
Insert the dist "where you think" it should go, and end up with the rotor pointing to your mark.
NEXT RETARD the dist. so the points are closed. (clockwise) Either use an ohmeter, or hook up the ignition and turn the key to run and use a test lamp. SLOWLY advance the dist. (counterclockwise) until the points open, I.E. your test lamp lights. Snug down the dist.
Examine the dist adjusting slot and make sure you have a "little room" for adjustment. If you are "all the way" to one end, you probably need to change one gear tooth, or adjust the sliding hickeydo on the dist. flange.
If you have a breakerless system, just set the dist. so the the reluctor tip is in the middle of the core of the pickup, and the rotor should be "just approaching" or "at" your no1 tower mark.
Once you learn to do this, the car should fire right up with no fuss just like it had been parked overnight.
Couple of other things. Don't forget to examine / clean the dist cam for dirt and hardened grease, as well as a general once - over for proper weight / advance operation and excessive shaft / bearing play. Put a tiny drop of grease on the APPROACH side of the points rubbing block.
SET YOUR POINTS just slightly "open" more than the book, as the rubbing block will wear. Recheck/ reset the gap / timing in a couple of months
SET YOUR TIMING a couple of degrees more advanced than you normally run it for the same reason above. The points gap will wear "shut" and the timing will retard.
