Convertible Top Not Working
Yup I have heard factory switches are a scarce commodity particularly for a 67.
Here is how I wired up a pair of relays to relive high current load from factory top switch.
You should probably use a 30 amp circuit breaker between new 12 volt feed and relays because this all can be housed out of the way behind the dash. The circuit breaker will break the circuit, and after a very short time automatically re-set once it has cooled. The existing breaker on the old top switch should be change for a lower rated breaker; say 3 amps
If you use a 30 amp fuse for over current protection, you will need easily access its fuse holder. I think when replacing the factory glass fuse block with modern fuses I provided fusing for the top motor in the new block.
The grounding conductors from each trigger circuit (#85) can be ganged together, run over behind kick panel, and attached securely body sheet metal with a new screw and eye.
Yup I have heard factory switches are a scarce commodity particularly for a 67.
Here is how I wired up a pair of relays to relive high current load from factory top switch.
You should probably use a 30 amp circuit breaker between new 12 volt feed and relays because this all can be housed out of the way behind the dash. The circuit breaker will break the circuit, and after a very short time automatically re-set once it has cooled. The existing breaker on the old top switch should be change for a lower rated breaker; say 3 amps
If you use a 30 amp fuse for over current protection, you will need easily access its fuse holder. I think when replacing the factory glass fuse block with modern fuses I provided fusing for the top motor in the new block.
The grounding conductors from each trigger circuit (#85) can be ganged together, run over behind kick panel, and attached securely body sheet metal with a new screw and eye.