The I'm-Learning-As-I-Go 1965 Valiant Post
Torqued everything down. Greased up every zerk. The only thing I've left untorqued are the tie rods, as I'll need to adjust it a bit in order to be able to drive it down to the alignment shop.
Started prepping the rotors - cleaned and regreased the races. Originally bought a set of Chinese-made wheel bearings, but figured that it would be safer to equip high-stress high-heat areas like bearings with American stuff. So returned the Chinese-made "National" "Moog" bearings to O'Reilly and ordered a complete set of Timkens (L68149 - inner bearings, LM11949 - outer bearings) through Amazon. Ironically, the better bearing came out cheaper - with free shipping to Hawaii. Rock on, Amazon.
So put the inner bearings in, and seated the seals with a 2" PVC piece of pipe. Once seated, I pushed it all the way in with a piece of wood a few gentle taps with a punch.
And then mounted the rotors, outer bearings, washer, nut, cotter pin (not pictured):
For the tightness of the nut I used Tom Condran's advice - increase tension until bearings are seated with no play, and then tighten a skosh more.
Torqued everything down. Greased up every zerk. The only thing I've left untorqued are the tie rods, as I'll need to adjust it a bit in order to be able to drive it down to the alignment shop.
Started prepping the rotors - cleaned and regreased the races. Originally bought a set of Chinese-made wheel bearings, but figured that it would be safer to equip high-stress high-heat areas like bearings with American stuff. So returned the Chinese-made "National" "Moog" bearings to O'Reilly and ordered a complete set of Timkens (L68149 - inner bearings, LM11949 - outer bearings) through Amazon. Ironically, the better bearing came out cheaper - with free shipping to Hawaii. Rock on, Amazon.
So put the inner bearings in, and seated the seals with a 2" PVC piece of pipe. Once seated, I pushed it all the way in with a piece of wood a few gentle taps with a punch.
And then mounted the rotors, outer bearings, washer, nut, cotter pin (not pictured):
For the tightness of the nut I used Tom Condran's advice - increase tension until bearings are seated with no play, and then tighten a skosh more.