69 Valiant dyno numbers, and video
To Brad426
Your ride is bad.I didn't realize how rare Valiants are. Then I looked it up yesterday
1969 Dart 600,000 total built, mostly 2 drs because of the different body styles
1969 Valiant 75,000 only 35,000 were 2 drs.These numbers are approx.
To Moper:
489 gears, which I will be switching to 430's (car came with 4:89's). J.W. Ultra bell 'Glide w/brake. We use the 28% factor which is farily close, but things like converter etc. can make a big diff. I have engine dyno'd, then chassis dyno'd the same motor and this number seems to work. With that said if it is 520 HP or 720 HP it doesn't really matter to me, as long as it is consistant.I am a die hard drag racer, looking only for consistancy.
Which brings me to the chassis dyno. I have had this motor in 3 cars (freshened each time), it has been on the dyno 1st in each car before racing, and after hundreds of runs, and more wins then I can count in each car, I never turn a wrench or barely open the hood while at the drags.
Each time on the dyno,I also found little issues I.E. leaks, loose this, loose that, that would have been a bummer at the track.
When I changed the motor from my Duster to my ' glass S/G Daytona I added aluminum heads, and changed to the JW 'glide. 1st race I bent a pushrod in the 3rd round, second race I went 5 rounds and won . And not to brag, the car and I won it, no give me's from the other lane I.E. red lights break outs.This was our Pro Gas acc. and they are all tough guys.
I then raced all summer (never doing any thing but servicing it) then took it to Arizona with me while working there durning the winter. I also ran S/G against some killer opponents at both Firebird, and Speedworld.Firebird I lost 1st round, because I crapped the tree, Speedworld I ran S/G, against the Arizona Pro Gas Acc. only to loose to the #1 points guy in the final by a 1 ten thou break out on my part 9:89.9 on a 9:90 dial (he had a 0.20 light, I had a 0.22 light).
I would say the dyno works, at least for me. Things like finding out, 1 degree timming can kill 9 H.P.And 83 jets are too rich,79 too lean. How many trips down the track, pulling plugs, burning my fingers, and wearing out the motor to look at time slips to see which thing made it faster or better? How many to find out what makes it consistant?
When I go out the 1st time, I will be looking at the tree, and gathering those types of data along with my 60 fts, which have to do with the chassis.All the while not messing with the motor, I have full confidence in it now.
This is why I said, I would have burned up all my test and tune laps, and the car wouldn't be where it is at now.
Lastly, I actually richened it up, and lost 6 HP. I did this because it was a bit lean, and even though on some test and tune laps I would have been fooled by a faster E.T.
That would have not helped me win a race on a cold night, later in the summer, when it wouldn't run that same number again. let alone I was hurting the motor all that time.So looking at data like faster time slips to me,or messing with the motor at the track, is not the answer to tunning a car properly.
Thanks For commenting, I know everybody has their own opinion.