440 Won't start syndrome

This HAS TO BE

either

ignition timing

camshaft timing

or a valve (open) problem

"Rig" a way to get air pressure into each cylinder. Google around it simply is NOT THAT DIFFICULT to build yourself a leak down tester, but even getting air in there will allow you to listen ---with each cylinder at TDC ready to fire -- for leaking air out the intake and exhaust.

Look at the dist. rotor, and move the balancer back and forth "feeling" for the slack in the chain until the rotor "just doesn't move". You should not be able to move the balancer more than 10* which indicates a worn possible slipped cam sprocket.

You can get SOME idea of whether cam timing is correct by looking for "split overlap." You do this by bringing the timing marks up to TDC, but with no6 ready to fire (both valves closed, or compression on your finger on no6) At this point BOTH valves of no1 will be open, one opening, one closing. They should be "close" to equal, and you do have to use some judgement with this, as modern cams do not exhibit true "split overlap."

To make sure the dist. is in correct, bring no1 around, with your finger in the hole, feel for compression, and as soon as you start to feel compression, look at the marks coming up. Set the marks NOT at TDC, but WHERE YOU WANT initial timing, IE 10BTC, 15 BTC, etc.

Next drop in the distributor, I always take the cap and scribe a line on the top rim of the housing to index the no1 plug tower. RETARD the dist, then bring back towards no1 until the points just open, or if breakerless, until the reluctor wheel tip is in the center of the pickup coil.

THIS METHOD if you do it right, should fire the engine WITH NO FUSSING with timing.