440 Won't start syndrome

"Rig" a way to get air pressure into each cylinder. Google around it simply is NOT THAT DIFFICULT to build yourself a leak down tester, but even getting air in there will allow you to listen ---with each cylinder at TDC ready to fire -- for leaking air out the intake and exhaust.


You can get SOME idea of whether cam timing is correct by looking for "split overlap." You do this by bringing the timing marks up to TDC, but with no6 ready to fire (both valves closed, or compression on your finger on no6) At this point BOTH valves of no1 will be open, one opening, one closing. They should be "close" to equal, and you do have to use some judgement with this, as modern cams do not exhibit true "split overlap."

To make sure the dist. is in correct, bring no1 around, with your finger in the hole, feel for compression, and as soon as you start to feel compression, look at the marks coming up. Set the marks NOT at TDC, but WHERE YOU WANT initial timing, IE 10BTC, 15 BTC, etc.

Next drop in the distributor, I always take the cap and scribe a line on the top rim of the housing to index the no1 plug tower. RETARD the dist, then bring back towards no1 until the points just open

THIS METHOD if you do it right, should fire the engine WITH NO FUSSING with timing.

So what your saying in the last step is - to make it toward the #1 in the compression stroke and timing marks where ever I like but not at top dead center. Is this with Distributor On the car or removed the Distributor? Got confused with the last paragraph.

Does it also matter where #1 is on the Distributor cap?


Im going to have to take another look at the valves again with my dad and do #6 this time while looking at #1s reaction, there isn't alot of options left. switched Spark plug wires, checked a few vacuums and change coil and went thru the list of ideas. It has to be the valves and that is screwing my timing. doing a search for the leakdown test on google and youtube as well.