I am in the process of switching out my 8 3/4 Triangulated 4 Link for a Ford 9" with something that will Hook up in a Car Wash that can be used on the street without getting rid of the back seat.
My good friend has a buddy with a un equal length Triangulated 4 Link and about 800HP to the tires. He has messed with it for Days and can not get it to hook except for the first 20 Feet, it then gets Wheel Hop and Tire Chatter and there is absolutely no way to control it. When he had a different power plant with about 600HP to the tires it did fine. The extra ponies are just powering thru the unequal length 4 Link set up.
I should at some point have more power to the tires than he does and I don't want to start off with problems like this.
This Pro Street set up from Alston has Bushings and is supposed to be friendly for Street Use when using their Bushed Track Locator.
.......Back to your buddy's wheel hoop / tire chatter issue....
Tire shake is a function of the suspension moving with more force than the shocks are adjusted to "dampen". To make an adjustment, stiffin the rebound first, then stiffin the compression to help hold down the tire once it gets applied. The goal is to match the dampning values with the level of force/energy passing thru the shocks. Consider selecting shocks that are designed for higher horsepower applications...like the AFCO BG-Big Gun series Shocks.
When setting ride height, start with the shock shaft 1/2 way in/out. Fine tune from there. Be sure to guard against shocks bottoming out. If the installed height of the shock is to short, and the piston (on the end of the shock shaft) hits the base valve (at the bottom of the shock), and damage will result.
When choosing rear springs, it is suggested to err to the softer option. A softer spring rate will typically be more consistant over the range of starting line conditions.
Run that by ol' Pete...and see if he agrees...no charge!
I might be a little nutzzzz,.... but I'm just not another pretty face)