Early A TTI and oil pan issues
OK this Dart has always been very tight to work on with the 727 in it. The large starter was a nightmare! And I used to have fenderwell headers etc.
Anyway after about 5-6 times mocking the engine in and out I got the frame clearance I needed for the oil pan. I also without any help slid on the passenger side header then lowered it a little bit to just the point that I could get the drivers side on. Then worked it down onto the mounts. Make sure you pull the head studs for the exhaust too on the passenger side. They will hang you up, not enough room to slide over the studs.
Before I forget, make sure you have what is called the 90 degree hemi fitting for the pressure hose on the PS and install the hose 1st and tighten it. My car came with the 90 fitting from the factory.
I had to move the brake line junction block. In fact for now it is off completely and the lines to the front brakes are that wrap under the frame rails to the brake hoses are much to close to the headers. I am going to make new brake lines and re-route them away from the heat.
I also used to have the cast iron 90 oil adapter, but I wanted better flow and remote filter(s) and an oil cooler maybe? So I got a Canton billet piece. Well it is a little thicker than the iron 90 so I have to do a little tweak job to the headers to get some clearance. Not much, maybe just 1/3" or so. I no they say you have to cut or grind he bolt on the iron adapter.
Anyway once all was in place I put the new Torsion bars in. Then I put together an empty 727 case and tail shaft to bolt to the engine and support everything in place so I could lower the car and put it back in the shop for the winter. Well I can tell you I had to turn the 727 sideways to clear the headers! OUCH.... It is going to be a pain with an assembled trans and convertor.
Everything else is going OK, just takes a a lot is tweaking, mods etc. and a lot of time! I think if I was putting these in a running car I would pull the engine and put them both in from up top. It was a long day. You not only have to put the engine in, but then the exhaust and all your suspension back too.
I worked on some of the misc stuff today torque strap etc. and I think I may loosen the passenger side headers to the heads, maybe that will give some trans room?
Next on the list is to finish the trans get it and the mini starter in place, make new brake lines. Then I will install the TTI 3" exhaust system with H pipe.
After that it is onto the radiatior, heater core, and igntion system. Not sure on the radiator yet, and I am going MSD maybe just an AL6 and the billet distributor, but they have a new series 6 out that is suppose to be a little more advanced.
Here are a few pics fro the top side. I have the intake just sitting with the valve covers for the pics.
OK this Dart has always been very tight to work on with the 727 in it. The large starter was a nightmare! And I used to have fenderwell headers etc.
Anyway after about 5-6 times mocking the engine in and out I got the frame clearance I needed for the oil pan. I also without any help slid on the passenger side header then lowered it a little bit to just the point that I could get the drivers side on. Then worked it down onto the mounts. Make sure you pull the head studs for the exhaust too on the passenger side. They will hang you up, not enough room to slide over the studs.
Before I forget, make sure you have what is called the 90 degree hemi fitting for the pressure hose on the PS and install the hose 1st and tighten it. My car came with the 90 fitting from the factory.
I had to move the brake line junction block. In fact for now it is off completely and the lines to the front brakes are that wrap under the frame rails to the brake hoses are much to close to the headers. I am going to make new brake lines and re-route them away from the heat.
I also used to have the cast iron 90 oil adapter, but I wanted better flow and remote filter(s) and an oil cooler maybe? So I got a Canton billet piece. Well it is a little thicker than the iron 90 so I have to do a little tweak job to the headers to get some clearance. Not much, maybe just 1/3" or so. I no they say you have to cut or grind he bolt on the iron adapter.
Anyway once all was in place I put the new Torsion bars in. Then I put together an empty 727 case and tail shaft to bolt to the engine and support everything in place so I could lower the car and put it back in the shop for the winter. Well I can tell you I had to turn the 727 sideways to clear the headers! OUCH.... It is going to be a pain with an assembled trans and convertor.
Everything else is going OK, just takes a a lot is tweaking, mods etc. and a lot of time! I think if I was putting these in a running car I would pull the engine and put them both in from up top. It was a long day. You not only have to put the engine in, but then the exhaust and all your suspension back too.
I worked on some of the misc stuff today torque strap etc. and I think I may loosen the passenger side headers to the heads, maybe that will give some trans room?
Next on the list is to finish the trans get it and the mini starter in place, make new brake lines. Then I will install the TTI 3" exhaust system with H pipe.
After that it is onto the radiatior, heater core, and igntion system. Not sure on the radiator yet, and I am going MSD maybe just an AL6 and the billet distributor, but they have a new series 6 out that is suppose to be a little more advanced.
Here are a few pics fro the top side. I have the intake just sitting with the valve covers for the pics.