1966 Valiant Signet Convertible Resto
Well Keisler is officially a bunch of hackers out to screw us over with their shitty work. The tremec is an awesome tranny but their kit sucks ***. So is their claim of "no hack job" This is a direct quote from their website: "BOLT IN REPLACEMENT Engineered for NO CUTTING or ALTERATION of the car body or frame; attaches directly to GM bellhousing and works with mechanical clutch linkage." :cussing: Total BS. Check out what I had to do to make mine fit. I'm still having trouble getting the motor to sit in the stock position so the tti headers will fit properly.
I have had to pull the engine and tranny 3 times. In the process I managed to scratch the headers and the paint in the engine bay. :cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing:
At least my system for installing the engine and tranny together is working out really well and saves the old back. Plus I can do it by myself.
Here is what I had to do to get things to finally fit. Although the headers hit the center link and idler arm on the passenger side even in the stock position. At least TTI lets you know ahead of time that you may need shims. Which I did and now it clears. The first picture was the first install. Keisler modified tranny does not clear rear crossmember. I cut the lip showing in the first set of pics and massaged a bit.
The second set of pictures is the 3rd time I pulled everything. I had to hack out half of the rear crossmember hoop. I was able to dog ear and weld the bottom portion to maintain structural integrity and strength. This was about an inch thick and allowed plenty of clearance afterwards. I also found that the firewall pinch weld needs to be flatted a bit to clear a spot. You need a BAMFH to massage the bellhousing tunnel for the Lakewood.
Afterwards I tried everything again and I still have some issues.
BTW it is best to have the power steering hose attached and the hydraulic slave installed loosely beforehand as well. You'll never get it in with the headers already installed.
In the meantime I need to touch up the engine bay. While I'm at it I will add that I'll be doing to some extra wetsanding/color sanding in the engine bay because I can see a fair amount of orange peel in the clear. This burns me a little but at least I can get to it with the engine out and I can get the finish I want if I just do it myself. It's funny that it is better when you just do it yourself anyways sometimes.
That's enough for me right now. I'll be sanding for the next couple days and then out of town for a week
I'll keep you posted of course :happy1:
Well Keisler is officially a bunch of hackers out to screw us over with their shitty work. The tremec is an awesome tranny but their kit sucks ***. So is their claim of "no hack job" This is a direct quote from their website: "BOLT IN REPLACEMENT Engineered for NO CUTTING or ALTERATION of the car body or frame; attaches directly to GM bellhousing and works with mechanical clutch linkage." :cussing: Total BS. Check out what I had to do to make mine fit. I'm still having trouble getting the motor to sit in the stock position so the tti headers will fit properly.
I have had to pull the engine and tranny 3 times. In the process I managed to scratch the headers and the paint in the engine bay. :cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing::cussing:
At least my system for installing the engine and tranny together is working out really well and saves the old back. Plus I can do it by myself.
Here is what I had to do to get things to finally fit. Although the headers hit the center link and idler arm on the passenger side even in the stock position. At least TTI lets you know ahead of time that you may need shims. Which I did and now it clears. The first picture was the first install. Keisler modified tranny does not clear rear crossmember. I cut the lip showing in the first set of pics and massaged a bit.
The second set of pictures is the 3rd time I pulled everything. I had to hack out half of the rear crossmember hoop. I was able to dog ear and weld the bottom portion to maintain structural integrity and strength. This was about an inch thick and allowed plenty of clearance afterwards. I also found that the firewall pinch weld needs to be flatted a bit to clear a spot. You need a BAMFH to massage the bellhousing tunnel for the Lakewood.
Afterwards I tried everything again and I still have some issues.
BTW it is best to have the power steering hose attached and the hydraulic slave installed loosely beforehand as well. You'll never get it in with the headers already installed.
In the meantime I need to touch up the engine bay. While I'm at it I will add that I'll be doing to some extra wetsanding/color sanding in the engine bay because I can see a fair amount of orange peel in the clear. This burns me a little but at least I can get to it with the engine out and I can get the finish I want if I just do it myself. It's funny that it is better when you just do it yourself anyways sometimes.
That's enough for me right now. I'll be sanding for the next couple days and then out of town for a week
I'll keep you posted of course :happy1: