80-90 roller 360 question

What RPM range are we talking about. My engine will be cruiser type of deal but I want what I can get out of it. If I keep RPM below 6000 to 6500 (Usually well below that) will I be OK with the rollers & a single spring with a damper? Or will a dual spring be required?


Most engines, even some decently preped units, will make peak power below 6000 rpm's. This includeds strokers.
The spring used for the engine is designed for the cam being used. If there is reason to believe the valves are floating early, the next spring up in line shuld be used. Another 15 -25 lbs will more than likely correct the problem.
However, a call to the cam company should actually be the first thing you do and let them know what you have and what problem is happening.




Right now I don't have any of the roller related valve gear (I do have adjustable rockers) no spider, lifters, etc. I"m sure it'd be cheaper to go with a flat tappet cam, but is there a roller profile that would be advantageous for me? I'm probably going to use my 340 Hipo manifolds, so I know I'm limited in what I can expect out of the motor.



The very aggresive solids can just about mimic a roller. That's right, just about. On a street, street/strip set up, your likely not to know the difference, except in your wallet.
I myself would opt. for the roller. And make sure I squeeze ebery once of power out of it.

The 2 main differences in the cams is (1) the solid requires higher spring presure. That can be a big cave eat in it's self.
(2) the roller cam has no break in period and the generally lighter spring pressures will not flatten out a cam for any reason. Just install and go. Thats a charm for me.

Please realize that the Comp Cams XE line is not as aggresive as you can get. You can get really wacky. And then the solid cam becomes very close to the roller. (I'm not a fan of sky high spring rates. They wear out faster and could pose problems. Lord forbid a minor oiling problem happens! Flat lobe!




Hughes told me "You can never have too much lift" so I'd think that if used a roller setup I could bring the lift on that much quicker.


Yes and AMEN brother! But not all rollers take max advantage of there abilty.


I'm thinking of using an 833OD trans with my 3.91 rear, so I'll probably want to try for a wide, flat torque curve because the ratios in the trans are pretty widely spread. Or, I could use my close ratio trans & swap 3rd members if I ever want to go on the highway for any distance.


The 833 OD is not avery strong unit. The wide spread is mainly in first to second gear. Reguardless, the standard 833 is a better choice for some power to be handled. The below cams recomended, can go as high as 3.55's and provided exccelent acceleration while keeping the abilty to run the Hwy.
I have 3.55's in my '79 Magnum now and the tire is a 245/60/15. Hwy travel @ 70 -75 is not a problem at all.


For a roller, Hughes recommended either an HER 1828 AL or an HER 2228 & to close the lobe seperation angle up to 107-108, or maybe 111 to 112.

For a flat tappet cam they recommended either HEH 1928 AL or an HEH 2328 AL & to close the lobe seperation angle up to around 111.