control arms

My car is level front to rear. It's not jacked up in the rear with tall tires and skinny fronts.

If you can get to 3 degrees positive caster and .75 to 1 deg negative camber without the tubular arms you won't really feel any difference. You should be able to do that with Moog 7103 upper bushings installed for more caster.





I got 4.5 degress positive caster and 1 deg negative camber with 73 front end with moog 7103 bushings installed for more caster. That's with shaved 3/16 off the inner poly strut rod bushings. I found the poly strut rod bushing thicker than stock. A thick inner strut rod bushing reduces caster. So I cut the inner front poly strut rod bushing down to stock size thickness. Remember to cut the sleeve the same amount.

Matt Grubel illustrates what I did and he also did here:
http://users.erols.com/mathewg/bushings.html

Street setup:

toe: 1/16" toe in
camber: 1.0 to 1.5 deg negetive 1.5 being more cornering agressive for handling, but you will loose caster with that.
caster: 3+ positive degrees

I'd set the rear eccentric all the way back and the front all the way foward at home to make sure someone spends the effort to do it. Don't assume the alignment guy will do it.

Tell the alignment guy ahead what you want to do. if they try to charge you more or act totally hassled by the car being out of spec GO SOMEWHERE ELSE!!



See for yourself...

These are the rough results without fine tuning and toe setting. This is the caster I got with 7103 bushing and only .8 to 1.0 negative camber. I went more racey on the camber setting to 1.5 negative and ended up with 3.5 deg positive caster.