67 A/C heater box rebuild and install help

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4spdragtop

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There wasnt much sense titling this thread as removal, cuz when dad bought his 67 cuda, all of the ac/heater stuff was already removed. I was just at dads and forgot to take the camera and take pics of his tables and tables of ac/heater stuff. We do have a service manual and a parts manual, as well as a rebuild gasket kit from Detroit Muscle Technologies. As you can see I have been posting to other peoples ac threads to give them a bump. One thing I noticed on dads pieces is that he has a hole in the bottom of the pass side round hole. I believe this is where the long "J" bolt goes. I plan on doing some reading/research etc, but any tips tricks as to the rebuild/install would help.
One other question...for now, we were going to omit the factory ac stuff as it isnt crucial right now to have it functioning, but we will be firing the 273 up and breaking in his new cam. Obviously the cooling has to be hooked up for the engine running, but is the cooling and ac stuff linked together??

Thanks again all, and going to dads on Tuesday and will take plenty of pics!

4spdragtop and ragtops pop
 
"cooling?" If you mean heater, you can just run a hose from between the two heater outlets on the engine. This WILL bypass some coolant, so you might want to stuff a scrap stud in there to block the flow. Don't forget to fill the cooling system with the heater connection up on the manifold open, so that you can "burp" the air out of the system

You should not need to hook up any of the AC stuff, unless you need to mount the pump for the belts. In that case you do need a good compressor clutch (bearings) to act as an idler.
 
Steve, not sure if there is a difference between 67 and the 68 or 69 boxes but here are the pics I took of mine before I tore it apart. This one came out of a 69.
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Thanks for the burp advice Del!

Thanks toplscuda!! Those pics are awesome! Great reference for sure..Im not sure either if there are differences, but I wouldnt think anything too drastic. Printing them off right now:thumleft:
 
I would loop the heater hoses for now too. You probably should cover the right opening in the cowl while that vent box is absent.
 
Dropped by dads real quick and took some pics of what we are up against...LOL

I understand the "looping" of the hoses, but what is meant by putting a scrap stud in to block the flow??
 

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I'm 90% sure the boxes are the same from 67-72. That looks like my 67 box
 
Ok I dropped by Dads today and picked up all the under-dash ac stuff. So far the only thing that I can see broken is the passenger side of the box. There is a hole in the bottom(pretty common) from what I have seen. Does anyone have a pic of a good box, or a repaired one?? I have some stuff to repair it, but want to get it "shaped" correctly.

Thanks
4spdragtop
 

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I have a pic of that area, just need to figure out how the heck to get it off my phone
 
Thats the hole for the hook that holds the fresh air vent up to the cowl. I reinforced mone with an aluminum piece inside and repaired the outside with so JB weld. DMT on e-bay sells the complete gasket kit for both boxes.
 
Thanks Eric, I know what goes in there, but I was hoping for a pic as to how a good one looks. I got some stuff to fix it, but wanting a little visual help.

Thanks
4spdragtop
 
From the outside it looks like any other hole drilled in the case. Those 2 samll ribs inside help hold the J bolt upright and reinforce the area a bit too. So the hole would be toward the back of what you have broken out there. The kep washer nut on the J bolt is about 3/4 diameter so it will hide most of your repair. That special J bolt has a perscribed thread length to prevent over tightening. We can guess the break came from pulling the case away from the firwall before dettaching that hook.
Adding a larger washer will work but it should be very thin. Otherwise tightening could break out a larger area. Hope this helps
 
Thanks txstang84! II think thats the pic I needed, I just wanted to be sure to "mold" the repaired part correctly. I just flipped thru that article quickly, Im going to print that one off!!
Should make that a sticky!
 
Thanks Carl! Perfect pic, I just wasnt sure how everything was molded originally. Thanks for taking the time, much appreciated.
 
Ok, so Im trying to get the ac unit dismantled, and in the mopar muscle mag write up it says to pull on evaporator control probe...see my pic, it's a long probe and goes thru a grommet on the side of the box. I tried pullin and tuggin on that bugger pretty good, but no go!! Any suggestions/ideas?? To be honest this thing looks pretty good and am thinking bout just leaving the evaporator in the box and maybe just having evap tested to make sure it works. Any ideas how to get the probe out??
 

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That probe should be somehow attached to the vaporaters fins. If you dont need to remove the vaporator or replace that controller, just leave it. You dont want to kink or break that little tube. It is nitrogen filled.
 
Hey Red, the only reason for wanting to remove it is to replace all the insulation in behind the evap coil. We have the kit from DMT. Im thinking I will just leave it like you said,but I will take the unit to an ac shop to have it tested and hope it comes back good.

Thanks!
 
Hey Red, the only reason for wanting to remove it is to replace all the insulation in behind the evap coil. We have the kit from DMT. Im thinking I will just leave it like you said,but I will take the unit to an ac shop to have it tested and hope it comes back good.

Thanks!

Can you see the other end of the tube on the other side of the vaporator?
Like I said they are normally attached with some sort of clip to prevent metal to metal wear. If it has a bulb on the end the rubber grommett in the case might need to come out with first.
 
Hey Red, I can barely see the tube thru the fins on the evap. toplscuda has his totally apart and got the capillary tube out, so I sent him a pm. Im gonna leave it for now and focus on other aspects of this. I talked to an ac shop today and they said they cant test the evap core on its own, they are only able to test the whole sytem when its together. For now all I want to do is get the under dash stuff done so the heater core can go back in. I figured while its getting new seals and gaskets I would have evap checked. I DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS TWICE!!

Thanks
Steve
 
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