slant gears help
thanks for the help cuda! sorry if im bugging you . when u say gas milegae went down, how much? i found a rear end from an international with the 4,27s. if i were to get it would i just have to swap the differnentials and be done with it? or do i still have to get inside it and change gears out? thanks!!
I'm relying on memory from 20 years ago, so keep that in mind, but.. I think I lost 5-8 Mpg., so it was quite a bit. Do a bunch of measuring on the Scout rear before you buy it. Measure flange to flange to make sure it will work. I ran wheel adapters on mine, which were about 3/4" thick per side. The Scouts had a 5 on 5-1/2" pattern. My adapters made it a 5 on 4-1/2".
I don't remember having to move the spring perches on the axle, but measure that too. I am pretty sure I reused my driveshaft and U-joint, but you could check that first too. The Scout rear should be a Dana 44, and the tubes will be bigger than your 7.25" rear. I stretched my stock U-bolts over the 44 and made them work. Remember this was the cobbing of an 18 year old with no money. The 44 is stronger than your 7.25, but it's no wonder axle, just a cheap way of getting some low gears. If the 44 you get is serviceable, you should just have to resurrect the brakes, and make sure it is full of fresh gear oil, you shouldn't have to touch the gears. Mine was a one legger, and I eventually spun the spider gears out of it doing burnouts. If you get a Power lock one, great, if not the peg leg will be OK. You could weld the spider gears if it is a one legger, (another "cobby" low buck trick) that will get power to both tires. The 44 in my Jeep is welded.
The 4.27 geared 44 won't do a thing for mileage or driveability, I'd think about it for a while before jumping in. If you do the swap, keep your stock rear, you may hate it and want to go back.
