Another gas gauge problem

The voltage limiter feeds BOTH the fuel and temp gauges. Here's a roundup of the problems with my 67 cluster:

Several of the harness to PC board connector pins were broken clear off or loose. Mine was in such bad shape, and I did a partial rewire of the car, so I went down to RadShack and got some "Molex" style connectors. I simply soldered pigtail wires to the copper traces near the pins, and ran them to each Molex connector half

If your pins are not too bad, you can clean them with a small brass brush, and resolder them

The nuts on both gauges were not making contact with the PC board. Loosen/ tighten the nuts, or replace them with "real" nuts, and clean the PC board

The brass springy fingers which form the "socket" for the voltage limiter were not making good contact with the PC board. Solder short jumpers from each brass contact to the board traces

In addition, generally clean the board, clean the contact fingers on the dash lamp sockets or replace them. Bend the socket fingers out for better contact

Don't forget the sender wire and connectors itself may have problems. The sender wire connector may be loose, corroded, or the connector in the kick panel where the rear harness comes forward under the sill plate may be loose/ corroded.

If you can determine the sender is OK, or substitute a resistor for the sender to check the gauge,

Here are the approximate resistances for Mopar senders, either temp or fuel:

L = 73.7 Ohms (empty)
M = 23.0 Ohms (1/2)
H = 10.2 Ohms (full)

If you can determine the sender wire is OK

If you can determine the temp gauge is OK which means the voltage limiter is OK

If you can determine that the jumper across the boards which supplies gauge power to the fuel gauge is OK, and that the nuts are tight, making contact,

then last, the gauge ITSELF might be bad.

ONE WAY to check by substitution is:

1 The fuel and temp gauge are the SAME movement. You can temporarily unhook the temp gauge sender wire out in the engine bay.

2 Disable power to the fuel gauge by removing the NUT on the POWER side stud.

3 Then run a clip lead from the sender stud of the fuel gauge to the sender stud of the temp gauge. This will cause your temp gauge to read fuel!!!

IF the temp gauge worked OK otherwise, doing so should give you a clue as to whether the fuel gauge itself is good/bad.