Small block engine won't start now need help!

My 69 barracuda setup is a 360 block with j heads and 340 spec camshaft. I have ecu on unit on the car (orange box with mopar original black coil and 1/4 ohm ballast resistor). My alternator, voltage regulator and starter relay are new.
The engine is basically new and the car had been starting fine, but the engine still needed to be timed. Yesterday, again the car started up fine and I got to where the car was idling much better and the vacuum at manifold was holding a pretty steady 18-20 range. However when I hooked up the vacuum line from distributor to the elec. choke edelbrock (vacuum port on passenger side no vacuum at idle) and removed the vacuum gauge line, the timing seemed to jump 10 degrees and wasn't idling quite as good. It seemed like the car was idling at it's best at about 5 degrees btdc, without the vacuum line hooked up. Last thing I did was have my brother run the engine up to 2500 rpm to get a reading, after that the motor started running sluggishly for a minute or two and then conked out like it would if you had just ran out of gas, which I thought is what happened. ( I did put some gas in the car and fuel is getting to carb)
The motor cranks like it wants to start, but doesn't kick over. I checked the voltage at the battery with multimeter and that tested fine at about 13 volts. The funny thing though is that my voltage meter when key is switched on now only is reading about 12 volts, whereas before it was reading just over 13 all the time.

I checked the primary and secondary resistance of mopar ignition coil and the primary was at .4 ohms (which seems low to me) and the secondary was right at 10,000 ohms, which I believe is just about right. I also pulled the the number one spark plug wire to see if I had spark, and there was a blue spark between plug and metal. I tested the ballast resistor with the two wires pulled and it was reading .25 ohms and there is no indication of it being fried on the back or front. Lastly, even though the timing chain is a new double roller, I did pull the distributor cap off and had someone crank it to make sure the rotor was turning, which it was. The ignition switch does click when turning the key, but I am sure there is a better way to test. Could it be the ignition switch?, could it be that the coils primary resistance is too low and is not producing enough voltage even though I am getting spark at the plug? Could it be the orange box? Starter relay? Else.... Any help is appreciated and if there are some other tests that can be done to try and figure out problem please describe step by step, so I am sure I am doing it right and getting correct readings. Thanks, Dave