Small block engine won't start now need help!
LOTS to digest there
You say the engine is "basically new" but "needs to be timed." This sounds as if it has not run long enough to break in the cam??
Who put the engine together?
Who adjusted the valves? (or are they factory non adjustable?)
YOU SHOULD be able to "static time" the engine to get it to run, then set it with timing light
LEAVE the vacuum disconnected until you get other things sorted out
SO
=======================================================================
1 Pull the no 1 spark plug. Stick your finger in the hole, bump the engine until you START to really feel compression. You may need to "go around" a couple of times until you get the "feel" (no pun) for this WHEN you start to get compression, turn your attention to the timing marks, which should be visible "coming up" if you look around the balancer. Now be more careful, probably use a socket on the crank bolt, and bring the marks NOT TO TDC but rather something BEFORE
(Depending on the cam) If you think this is a fairly stock IE factory 340 cam, set the timing MARKS at about 12* BTC "fer now."
Next, pull the no1 wire out of the cap so you can "see" what you are doing, and carefully MARK the top of the distributor housing under the CENTER of the no1 plug tower.
Bear in mind that "advanced" means "moving the distributor HOUSING counterclockwise
NOW LOOK at the distributor rotor, which should be COMING TO your mark in the clockwise direction. The reluctor tip should be CENTERED in the pickup coil core
If not, loosen the dist, and rotate it CLOCKWISE (to "get the slop out" of the drive) then slowly bring it COUNTER clockwise, until the reluctor tip is centered in the core of the pickup.
At this point the rotor, if you imagine it going clockwise, should be just "coming to" your mark you made on the dist. housing
THIS SHOULD be close enough that the engine will fire and run
========================================================================
2 NEXT let's see what you have for spark.
IF you do not have them, buy a 12V test lamp, a digital multimeter, and a couple of bags of clip leads from somewhere like Radio Shack. Less than 50 bucks gets you the whole mess
Run a clip lead from the COIL + terminal to a battery source such as the "big stud" on the start relay
Use a grounded probe, such as a 12V test lamp, or a clip lead and screwdriver. Remove the coil wire from the coil, and hold your probe at the top of the coil tower. Crank the engine, either with the key, or by jumpering the start relay. You should get a NICE fat blue spark.
Remove the clip lead from the coil to battery
While you're at it, how are the rotor and cap? New? If not, take a GOOD look. Dirt, oil film, wet? Replace 'em.
What shape are the plug wires? More than 10 years old? Replace em
Next, we want to make sure system voltages are actually GETTING TO the igntion system.
Remove the distributor connector, the ECU connector, and resistor connectors, and "work" them in/ out several times to "scrub" the terminals clean. Inspect them for corrosion, and "feel" them to see how tight they are
Then take your meter. Hook one probe to the battery (starter relay stud is OK)
Clip the other probe to coil + Prop the meter up so you can see it and crank the engine USING THE KEY and NOT by jumpering the start relay. You are hoping for a VERY low reading, and anything more than a few tenths of a volt is TOO MUCH. Over 1/2 volt is way too much, and indicates a voltage drop problem in the harness or switch, or connections
Next, with the meter still hooked to the battery, clip your other probe to the dark blue "ignition run" lead which comes out of the bulkhead and feeds the ignition resistor. You can also hook to the IGN terminal of the voltage regulator
Turn the key to "run", engine OFF. Again you are hoping for a VERY low reading. Anything over .3V (three tenths of a volt) means you have a voltage drop problem.
The circuit path you are checking is from battery -- fuse link -- bulkhead connector -- ammeter circuit --ignition switch connector -- through the switch -- back OUT the switch connector -- back out the bulkhead -- to the ballast resistor, voltage regulator
IF you get a higher reading with either of the above tests, you have a bad connection somewhere. Your top suspects are the bulkhead connector, the ignition switch connector, the switch itself, or maybe the ammeter circuit
=======================================================================
3 FUEL How confident are you that the fuel system is OK? That the fuel in the tank is not AFU?
IF there is ANY question as to this, you might "rig" an overhead can SAFELY and siphon down into the carb with some fuel hose until you get the fuel system sorted out.
Is the tank gummy/ rusty/ dirty?
Is the fuel filter in the tank gummed up?
Are the two rubber connector hoses old, and collapsing?
Is the steel feed tube plugged, rusted, leaking, etc?
Is the pump in good shape? How new is it? Has it been sitting for 20 years? Replace it.
You can check a pump with your vacuum / pressure gauge
========================================================================
VACUUM ADVANCE. You may simply be hooking the vacuum advance to the wrong carb port. Most Mopars use what is known as TIMED or PORTED vacuum. What this means is that there IS NO vacuum at idle at the advance port. At idle, the vacuum advance does not work, normally.
SO FOR NOW until you get the engine running OK, simply LEAVE it unconnected
========================================================================
DO you have a shop manual? You can download some here:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download
You have to scroll around and try them, because some links are broken, and have been fixed further down the thread
Two manuals that are COMPLETE are the 72 and the 66. Some of the others are "body only" or are missing electrical. Stuff like checking fuel pumps is laid out in either the 66 or 72 manual, and will not matter the year of the car