Suspension Review

1.08" bars are going to be pretty stiff, that should be about a 270 lb/in bar, give or take a bit depending on the manufacturer.

But, whether or not its "too stiff" for the street has a lot to do with your personal preference. I run 1.12" Firm Feel bars in my Challenger, which is a 270 lb/in bar for an E-body. I like 'em. I have almost 40k miles on mine, and I wouldn't change them, even now that I run 17" rims. Its a small block car, and probably weighs around 3,500 lbs.

By comparison, I'm running 1" Just Suspension bars in my Duster, and I think they're a bit on the soft side. A HUGE improvement over stock, but I think I'm going to go 1.03 or 1.06" for it. Its also a small block car, and I've already fully welded the K member and boxed the lower control arms.

You might also want to look into getting offset UCA bushings, you'll want to run more modern alignment specs to improve your handling as well. With 14" tires it will be a bit soft, but as long as they're radials and not bias ply's you'll want to run 0 to -.5 camber, +3 to +4 caster, and around 1/16" to 1/8" toe in. With more modern tires you can get away with more negative camber, up to about -1 degree before you start eating tires. And if you've got power steering you can run as much positive caster as you can get. The offset UCA bushings will really help with that.

You can do the 2x3" subframe connectors without going through the floor, that's about the biggest you can go though. Hard to say if they're stiffer than the ones that fit to the floor, they're definitely stiffer out of the car but once the other ones are welded to the floor they're pretty sturdy, as they do a lot to reinforce the floor. The 2x3" connectors will be easier to install though, there's a lot more cutting and fitting for the ones that are fit to the floor, and they're not the easiest to install unless you've got the car up on a rotisserie. Otherwise its a lot of sheet metal welding to do upside down.