coil wiring
If you have a two-wire distributor there are TWO possibilities:
1 You PROBABLY have a later model Mopar factory breakerless distributor.
YOU NEED an ignition module and wiring to complete this
2 You COULD have an aftermarket Pertronix conversion, which replaces the points
You need to look inside to find out
Factory Mopar breakerless:
Has a magnetic pickup coil, and unless cut off, has a two - wire rubber connector on the end
Pertronix you can Google, here's one for the /6:
If you have a Mopar breakerless distributor, there are a couple of ways to go:
Find a system out of a junker to get the harness, see if you can buy connector pigtails at the parts store, or buy the Mopar Performance conversion kit
Here is the wiring for the Mopar systems. If you get an older (5 pin) ECU you MUST use a 4 pin resistor. You cannot tell by counting the ECU pins, because some newer 4 pin ECUs have 5 physical pins.
If you have a newer 4 pin ECU, you can wire it for EITHER a 2 or 4 pin resistor, as the other side of the resistor is not used. The only advantage to that, is if you get your hands on a 5 pin box, it will plug right in and operate
What is NOT shown in these diagrams is that your original brown coil bypass connects at the junction of the resistor and the coil+ terminal. This is the "ignition bypass" If you have the original wiring in the car, for the original 2 pin resistor, this will already be in place
"Existing wire" labled at the top far right of the page is the "dark blue" ignition feed coming to the original resistor.
older 5 pin box:
newer 4 pin box:
Another route you can take is a GM HEI module. I did not go the route of many with fancy coils. The thing runs fine with a stock coil
The GM module has a "tit" on the bottom which you must either break off or drill a clearance hole. Mount it on a flat metal surface or heat sink, use the thermal grease and be sure the mounting screws ground the unit. Then wire it up as shown. It is important to hook the distributor connector up as shown. You can get a 2 wire "trailer connector" from any parts store to get the connector you need
I run mine with NO ballast resistor, so jumper the ballast wires together, and hook the old coil + wire back up to the coil as it was.
If you have a two-wire distributor there are TWO possibilities:
1 You PROBABLY have a later model Mopar factory breakerless distributor.
YOU NEED an ignition module and wiring to complete this
2 You COULD have an aftermarket Pertronix conversion, which replaces the points
You need to look inside to find out
Factory Mopar breakerless:
Has a magnetic pickup coil, and unless cut off, has a two - wire rubber connector on the end
Pertronix you can Google, here's one for the /6:
If you have a Mopar breakerless distributor, there are a couple of ways to go:
Find a system out of a junker to get the harness, see if you can buy connector pigtails at the parts store, or buy the Mopar Performance conversion kit
Here is the wiring for the Mopar systems. If you get an older (5 pin) ECU you MUST use a 4 pin resistor. You cannot tell by counting the ECU pins, because some newer 4 pin ECUs have 5 physical pins.
If you have a newer 4 pin ECU, you can wire it for EITHER a 2 or 4 pin resistor, as the other side of the resistor is not used. The only advantage to that, is if you get your hands on a 5 pin box, it will plug right in and operate
What is NOT shown in these diagrams is that your original brown coil bypass connects at the junction of the resistor and the coil+ terminal. This is the "ignition bypass" If you have the original wiring in the car, for the original 2 pin resistor, this will already be in place
"Existing wire" labled at the top far right of the page is the "dark blue" ignition feed coming to the original resistor.
older 5 pin box:
newer 4 pin box:
Another route you can take is a GM HEI module. I did not go the route of many with fancy coils. The thing runs fine with a stock coil
The GM module has a "tit" on the bottom which you must either break off or drill a clearance hole. Mount it on a flat metal surface or heat sink, use the thermal grease and be sure the mounting screws ground the unit. Then wire it up as shown. It is important to hook the distributor connector up as shown. You can get a 2 wire "trailer connector" from any parts store to get the connector you need
I run mine with NO ballast resistor, so jumper the ballast wires together, and hook the old coil + wire back up to the coil as it was.