choke wiring again

If your alternator is using the 69/ earlier style regulator, you indeed need to ground the second field terminal, and there is no switched 12V to the alternator in that case

The short answer (no pun intended) is if you are using no ballast, you can hook the choke to the coil.

One thing I ALWAYS recommend to you guys is to check the wiring harness as well as the regulator ground, along with checking charging voltage.

To check the harness, turn the key to run, engine off. With your meter set to low DC volts, hook one probe to battery POS (starter relay stud or battery post) and hook the other terminal, in this case, to coil + (no resistor)

You are hoping for a VERY low reading, the lower the better. Anything more than about .3V (three tenths of a volt) means you have a voltage drop problem in the harness.

Next, warm up the engine (regulators change voltage with temp) and get the battery "normalized." Check charging voltage which should be near 14V, IE 13.8--14.2, in no case below 13.5, and in no case above 14.5.

You can also check the regulator ground by the voltage drop method

With the engine running at a good fast idle, and your meter on low DC volts, stab one probe on the battery NEG post, and the other directly to the mounting frame of the regulator Be sure to stab through any rust, chrome, etc.

Once again, you should read a VERY low reading, the lower the better, zero volts is perfect.

I would put an inline fuse between the coil and the choke. THE IGNITION feed (dark blue) coming from the IGN switch through the firewall is NOT fused!!!